Ammo Ballistics and History:

[TITANIUM]

I originally wrote this in response to DSM's Glock questions. I spent alot of time on it, and thought it would make a good thread for those interested. Since I have a diversified background in this field, I would like to pass this information on. Alot of members are on the fence about handgun calibers and handguns in general .Hope this helps out.




Glocks are great and work with very few parts, this is what makes them so reliable. The Germans are known for there excellent mechanical aptitude. No external safeties are needed due to the safety being built into the trigger assembly.This is done to keep unintentional discharges from happening.

Now, the cartridge that basically what law enforcement gravitates towards is the .40 S&W.This cartridge is based on the 10mm cartridge colt developed years age, but do to marketing issues, never caught on.So, in essence, it is a shorter case length, with the same neck diameter.Ballistics are very good, and the coefficient factor works as well.

You'll find that good hollow points, such as federal hydra-shock bullets are the best round going. The FBI adopted this round years ago, and it is considered the staple on performance and accuracy.Terminal ballistics are also excellent.

I am a 1911 guy, but that is because that was the very first pistol I was trained to use.Even though the US adopted the bareta 9mm, alot of the armed forces and special branches still carry the 1911. It is a fight stopper for sure. The 45 acp was developed by John Moses Browning in the early 1900's, he also developed the 1911 configured hand gun for the US army, which of course was adopted whilst being tested in the field.

So, I would go for the Glock in .40 S&W and you can't go wrong. It's a good round for self defense and is superior to the 9mm. Alot of members will tell you that the .45 is to big and slow. This is due to the mis- understanding surrounding the cartridge. While the .45 has a muzzle velocity of about 850 to 900 fps, if you get into 185 gr +P rounds, it travels around 1250fps.


I've learned quite a bit over the years about the .40 and the 9mm. if you are a police officer, keeping in mind that the odds are high you'll be involved in a shooting around, near, or through a vehicle, rounds like the 147 gr. JHP Hydra Shok may have merit. Remember that one of the key issues for the FBI selection of the 147 Hydra Shok was the fact most FBI shootouts statistically involved automobiles. Light, fast 115 and 124 gr. JHP rounds often fail to penetrate auto bodies and safety glass.


When the .40 S&W round was first marketed, it was typically a 180 gr. JHP with a muzzle velocity of 950 fps. After a few years of use on the street, not all the results from shootings and gunfights had proven the .40 to be a great improvement. When the ballistic testers went to work on this problem, one of the first things noted was if the .40 S&W bullet was reduced in weight to the 135 to 165 gr. range, a higher velocity could be used. This resulted in far better results in actual shootouts.

Today, most savvy .40 S&W users select either the super hot 135 grain loadings or the 155 gr. rounds. When velocities reach the 9mm range, the .40 S&W round performs much better. But at a price. The .40 is a high pressure cartridge and occasionally this pressure can create some spectacular results, if you have a good nine, use it and avoid potential problems.

But, there's more. With good 9mm ammo, depending upon your needs, try the 115 to 135 gr. range. Whether it be the Corbon 115 JHP I use, or Federal, Remington, Winchester, Pro Load, Black Hills or Gold Dot, you're probably as well armed with your 9mm as you would be with a .40 S&W


New cartridges are the lifeblood of shooters like me. After awhile we run out of things to talk about otherwise. Of course it is really hard to say that anything is truly new in a technology that has been mature for a century or so, but when Smith & Wesson and Winchester teamed up to introduce the .40 S&W in 1990 their timing could not have been more opportune. And I was luckily involved almost from the outset.


The groundwork was really laid by the FBI's investigation of the 10mm Auto as a replacement for their issue handguns and the subsequent development of the S&W Model 1076. The 10mm Auto was introduced in 1983 and was a real hotrod with far too much recoil for practical law enforcement use. I had been experimenting with the 10 and came to the conclusion that a 180-grain cast bullet at around 1,000 feet per second handily made major and was much easier to shoot. When the FBI began testing the 10mm they found the 180-grain bullet at 950 to 1,000 fps had great defensive potential as well.

There are conflicting claims over who did what and when. There had been some work done with shortened 10mm brass with the thought of using it in a smaller pistol platform, but both Winchester and Smith & Wesson executives told me that the project was begun with a blank sheet of paper and a handshake between presidents Jerry Bersett of Winchester and Steve Melvin of S&W. The ammo development at Winchester was a closely guarded secret program operating under the code name "Swordfish." The bottom-line intent was to make a cartridge that would work in S&W's 9mm frames, deliver a 180-grain bullet at 950 to 1,000 fps and do so within the 35,000 psi pressure limit already established for the 9mm. Amazing coincidence don't you think?


The coolest thing of all is that the naysayers of 10 years back are still wiping egg from their faces. Of course the speed freaks are still trying to find more speed but the majority of users have stuck with the 180-grain bullet even though my personal favorite is still the FBI's 165. I always was a heretic.




The .45 ACP Cartridge

When you take a look at the large missile-shaped cartridge of your average deer rifle, and better yet, when you put the rifle to your shoulder and fire it, a little alarm ought to go off in your head about pistol cartridges--all pistol cartridges. They are all inadequate in terms of real power. I like Clint Smith's definition that "a pistol is something you use to fight your way back to your gun." Pistols have their place due to the ease with which they can be carried and brought into action, but it's important to recognize their limitations. Notice that no fighting force in history has gone into battle armed with pistols as their primary weapons.

Some pistol cartridges are less inadequate than others, and one which comes pretty close to adequate is the .45 ACP. "ACP" stands for "Automatic Colt Pistol."

John Browning is credited with having designed the .45 ACP cartridge. Browning's .45 ACP was built specifically for the pistol that many of us regard as one of the greatest pistol designs ever, the M1911. However, I'm not at all sure that the M1911 wouldn't have been chambered for .38 Super had Browning been left to his own devices.

The man who pushed the Army into adopting the .45 caliber cartridge was Gen. John T. Thompson, the father of the Thompson submachine gun and a member of the Army Ordnance Board during the time that the M1911 pistol was being developed by John Browning and Colt. After the disastrous showing of the Army's .38 Long Colt pistols in the Philippines, Gen. Thompson was committed to the idea that the Army should be packing a real man-stopper in its handguns, a big .45 caliber bullet.

It was the cartridge tests conducted by Thompson and Major Louis Anatole LaGarde of the Medical Corps in 1904 at the Nelson Morris Company Union Stockyards in Chicago that resulted in the adoption of the .45 caliber as the official U.S. Army handgun cartridge. They tested various calibers on live cattle, deer, and human cadavers to determine the best load. From these tests it was determined that the .45 was the most effective cartridge for a handgun, but with reservations. In their report, they state:

"the Board was of the opinion that a bullet, which will have the shock effect and stopping effect at short ranges necessary for a military pistol or revolver, should have a caliber not less than .45". But they also said, "...soldiers armed with pistols or revolvers should be drilled unremittingly in the accuracy of fire" because most of the human body offered "no hope of stopping an adversary by shock or other immediate results when hit."

In response to the Ordnance Board’s specification, Browning designed the .45 ACP for the pistol he was submitting to the board. Browning’s first loading was a 200 grain bullet running at 900 feet per second, but the Army wanted a larger bullet. Browning responded with the loading we have today, a 230 grain bullet with a muzzle velocity of 830 feet per second.



Stopping Power

It is interesting to observe that we are still arguing this basic question of terminal ballistics which was articulated by Thompson in 1904. The tag-team wrestling match in the terminal ballistics field is currently between Ed Sanow and Evan Marshall in the "small and fast" corner, and Dr. Martin Fackler (backed up by Thompson and LaGarde) in the "big and slow" corner. This discussion quickly degenerates into a lot of arcane mumbles about temporary and permanent crush cavities, energy transfer, hydrostatic shock, and the Miami FBI shoot-out. It's interesting if you're a physicist or a forensic pathologist, but it gets kind of academic for the rest of us. "Small and fast" works really well with high-powered rifles when their small 80 grain bullets are traveling at 4000 feet per second, but hand gun cartridges don't operate at those energy levels. The best of the small and fast pistol rounds is the 125 grain .357 Magnum which has enjoyed an impressive service record in the "one shot stop" statistics. It has also suffered some spectacular failures in which the bad guy was shot multiple times center of mass and remained on his feet.

Evan Marshall and Ed Sanow have worked up a set of statistics based on results of actual shootings in which one shot was fired into the torso of the attacker stopping the assault, and from these studies they have developed percentage ratings for "one shot stops" for cartridges from .22 to 12 gauge. The Marshall and Sanow numbers show a tendency for small and fast cartridges to do somewhat better than large and slow ones, i.e., .380's do slightly better than .38 Specials from 2" barrels and .357 Magnums do a percentage or so better than the .45 ACP. Understand that controversy still rages about the Marshall and Sanow study, particularly about their methods, sources of data, and the shootings they chose to exclude. Nevertheless, it's an interesting study.

Jim Higginbotham, a 30-year law enforcement veteran and trainer writes the following on the subject of pistol cartridges and failures to stop:

While I have come across some lethal encounters that took a lot of rounds to settle they mostly were the result of either poor hits (or complete misses) or lack of penetration. Nearly all of the high round count cases I have reviewed involved 9mms, .38s, .357’s or smaller calibers. This is not to say they do not occur with major caliber rounds. It is to say I have been collecting data for 30 years and have not encountered many cases in which multiple hits (more than three as two or three shots are a fairly normal reflex action) from major caliber cartridges to the center of the chest have not been sufficient, - the single exception being a case involving the .41 Magnum loaded with JSP bullets which did not expand - they did penetrate - it took five hits center mass to stop the attacker - and I have not encountered any with the .45, even with Ball. I have encountered several with 5, 6 or even more hits to the center of the chest with .38, .357, 9mm and .223 rifle rounds failing to stop. Almost every one could be traced to lack of penetration with a couple of exceptions that hit the heart but just did not cause enough damage to be effective quickly. Note I am not talking about "torso" hits. There is a lot of area in the torso in which a hit will seldom produce rapid incapacitation even if hit by a 12 ga. slug or a 30-06 - we simply cannot count such data if we are going to learn anything.

My purpose here is not to argue Fackler versus Marshall and Sanow because that's a book in itself. What is important in all of this is that regardless of which philosophy you choose to accept as true, the .45 ACP comes out well--at or near the top of the effectiveness ratings for both schools of thought.

Having established the almost universal agreement that the .45 ACP is an acceptable personal defense cartridge (kind of like proving the ocean is wet), are there negatives? Sure there are. For one thing, the .45 ACP is big and heavy. The same characteristic that makes it so admired by the big hole school also makes it heavy to carry and bulky, resulting in fewer rounds being available in compact handguns. A fully loaded Thompson submachine gun is fairly heavy if you have to lug it around through a hot jungle all day. Some people find the recoil of the .45 ACP punishing although I'm not one of them (I actually prefer the recoil of the .45 ACP over the recoil of the 9mm). The penetration of the .45 ACP 230-grain FMJ bullet is 26" in ballistic gelatin, making it problematic and dangerous as a personal defense load. The threat of over-penetration with the military round necessitates the use of hollow points for LEO and civilian PDW applications. Some of the older 1911 pistols don't like hollow point bullets very well and have to be throated and have their feed ramps polished for reliability. And last, there is the cost. The .45 ACP is expensive as pistol cartridges go, often $3-$4 per box more than 9mm or .38 Special.






The 9x19mm Parabellum (abbreviated 9mm, 9x19mm or 9x19) cartridge was designed by Georg Luger and introduced in 1902 by the German weapons manufacturer Deutsche Waffen und Munitionsfabriken (DWM) for their Luger semi-automatic pistol.[5] For this reason, it is commonly called the 9mm Luger cartridge, differentiating it from the also-popular 9mm Makarov and 9mm Browning cartridges.

The book Cartridges of the World stated in 2006, the 9x19mm Parabellum is "the world's most popular and widely used military handgun cartridge."[6]

The name Parabellum is derived from the Latin: Si vis pacem, para bellum ("If you seek peace, prepare for war"), which was the motto and telegraphic address of DWM.

In addition to being used by over 60% of police in the U.S., Newsweek credits 9x19 pistol sales with making semi-automatic pistols more popular than revolvers.[7] The popularity of this cartridge can be attributed to the widely held conviction that it is highly effective in police and self-defense use.[8] This cartridge has been shown capable of imparting remote wounding effects known as hydrostatic shock.


Georg Luger developed the 9x19mm Parabellum cartridge from Luger's earlier 7.65x22mm Parabellum. In 1902, Luger presented the new round to the British Small Arms Committee as well as three prototype versions to the U.S. Army for testing at Springfield Arsenal in mid-1***. The German Navy adopted the cartridge in 1904 and in 1906 the German Army adopted it as well.[6]

The initial cartridge was created by removing the bottleneck of the 7.65 mm Luger cartridge, resulting in a tapered rimless cartridge. The ogive of the bullet was slightly redesigned in the 1910s in order to improve feeding.

To conserve lead during World War II in Germany, the lead core was replaced by an iron core encased with lead. This bullet, identified by a black bullet jacket, was designated as the 08 mE (mit Eisenkern—"with iron core"). By 1944, the black jacket of the 08 mE bullet was dropped and these bullets were produced with normal copper-colored jackets. Another wartime variation was designated the 08 SE bullet and identified by its dark gray jacket, and was created by compressing iron powder at high temperature into a solid material (Sintereisen—"sintered iron").[citation needed]


After World War I, acceptance of this caliber increased. 9 mm pistols and submachine guns were adopted by military and police users in a number of countries.

The 9x19mm Parabellum has become the most popular caliber for US Law Enforcement agencies, primarily due to the availability of compact pistols with generous magazine capacity utilizing this cartridge.

During the period between the early 1980s and the mid-1990s, a sharp increase in the popularity of semiautomatic pistols coincided with the adoption of the Beretta M9 by the US Army. At the time, most police departments were issuing .38 Special caliber revolvers with a six-shot capacity. The .38 Special was advantageous to other options like variants of the M1911 because it offered low recoil, the revolvers were small and light enough to accommodate different shooters, and it was relatively inexpensive.

Possessing superior ballistics to the .38 Special revolver cartridge, the 9 mm is a shorter round, and being an autoloader cartridge is stored in flat magazines as opposed to cylindrical speedloaders or clip (ammunition), coincided with the escalation of the gun politics debate of the 80's and 90's making 9mm guns a significant factor in the political rhetoric of the time.

The 9mm is also used by law enforcement outside of the United States. On June 14, 2009 the Minneapolis St. Paul Star Tribune reported that Alliant Techsystems, Edina, and Humbert CTTS SAS were awarded an approximately US$14mil contract to provide Speer GoldDot 9mm ammunition to the French Gendarmerie, French Customs, French Corrections and all 250,000 police officers in France.

The common rifling twist rate for this cartridge is 250 mm (1 in 9.84 in), 6 grooves, ø lands = 8.82 mm, ø grooves = 9.02 mm, land width = 2.49 mm and the primer type is small pistol.

According to the official C.I.P. (Commission Internationale Permanente Pour L'Epreuve Des Armes A Feu Portatives) guidelines the 9x19mm Parabellum case can handle up to 235 MPa (34,083 psi) piezo pressure. In C.I.P. regulated countries every pistol cartridge combo has to be proofed at 130% of this maximum C.I.P. pressure to certify for sale to consumers.
The SAAMI pressure limit for the 9x19mm Parabellum is set at 241.32 MPa (35,000 psi), piezo pressure.[14]
The SAAMI pressure limit for the 9x19 mm Parabellum +P is set at 265.45 MPa (38,500 psi), piezo pressure.

Performance

An expanded 124 grain 9x19mm Parabellum jacketed hollow point.The effective range of the 9mm is about 100 m although the bullet does travel and is lethal at longer ranges.

The 9 mm cartridge combines a relatively flat trajectory with moderate recoil. As early as 1986, in the NRA's book Handloading stated that "the modern science of wound ballistics has established beyond reasonable doubt that the 9mm cartridge is highly effective."[8]

The energy delivered by most 9 mm loads allows for adequate expansion and penetration with premium JHP bullets. Illinois State Police, Border Patrol, Federal Air Marshals and United States Secret Service favored and used 115 grain +P+ 9 mm loads at 1,300 ft/s for years with excellent results.[15] Lethal Force expert Massad Ayoob has stated that the "Tried, Tested, and True" 115 grain +P or +P+ is the best self defense load in this caliber.

The energy of this cartridge is capable of imparting remote wounding effects known as hydrostatic shock in human-sized living targets.[9][10][16] The existence of this phenomenon has been the subject of much debate, especially with respect to handgun cartridges.[17][18][19] However, recent publication of human autopsy results has demonstrated brain hemorrhaging from fatal hits to the chest with 9mm bullets.[11]

Improvements and variations

From left to right: .50 Action Express, .44 Magnum, .357 Magnum, .45 ACP, .40 S&W, 9×19 mm Parabellum, .22 Long Rifle.In addition to the traditional pressure values for this cartidge, there are two main variants that offer different pressure standards than the SAAMI or C.I.P requirements.

9x19mm +P variant
Attempts to improve ballistics of the cartridge came in the early 1990s with the widespread availability of high pressure loadings of the 9 mm cartridge. Such overpressure cartridges are labeled "+P" or in the case of very high pressure loadings "+P+".[20] Ballistic performance of these rounds was moderately improved over the standard loadings. In addition, improvements in jacketed hollow point bullet technology have produced bullet designs that are more likely to expand and less likely to fragment than earlier iterations, giving a 9 mm bullet better terminal effectiveness.[citation needed]

9 mm NATO variant
The 9 mm cartridge has been manufactured by, or for, more than 70 different countries and has become a standard pistol caliber for NATO and other military forces around the world. Its official nomenclature among NATO users is "9 mm NATO". The 9 mm NATO can be considered as an overpressure variant of the 9x19mm Parabellum that is defined by NATO standards.[21] The service pressure Pmax of the 9 mm NATO is rated at 252 MPa (36,550 psi) where C.I.P. rates the 9 mm Luger PTmax somewhat lower at 235 MPa (34,083 psi). The 315.0 MPa (45,687 psi) proofing test pressure used in the 9 mm NATO proof test however equals the proofing test pressure used in the 9 mm Luger C.I.P. proof test.


Russian military overpressure variants
The Russian military has developed specialized 9x19mm cartridges that utilize relatively light bullets at high muzzle velocities for both pistols and submachine guns to defeat body armour. Besides enhanced penetration capabilities these overpressure variants offer a flatter trajectory and lessened recoil. After initial research, conducted since the late 1980s under the codename "Grach", the Russian armed forces adopted two specialized 9x19mm variants.


Chambering 7N21 9x19mm variant 7N31 9x19mm variant
Bullet weight 5.3 g (82 gr) 4.2 g (65 gr)
Muzzle velocity 460 m/s (1,509 ft/s) 600 m/s (1,969 ft/s)
Muzzle energy 561 J (414 ft.lbf) 756 J (558 ft.lbf)
Maximum pressure 280 MPa (40,611 psi)

The 7N21 9x19 mm overpressure variant MPa features an armour piercing bullet and generates a claimed peak pressure of 280 MPa (40,611 psi).[22] The 7N21 bullet features a hardened (sub-caliber) steel penetrator core, enclosed into a bimetal jacket. The space between the core and jacket is filled with polyethylene, and the tip of the penetrator is exposed at the front of the bullet, to achieve better penetration. The MP-443 Grach and GSh-18 pistols and PP-19-01, PP90M1 and PP-2000 submachine guns were designed for usage with this overpressure cartridge. Jane's Infantry Weapons stated in 2003 that the 7N21 cartridge combines the 9x19mm Parabellum dimensions with a 9x21mm Gyurza bullet design and was developed specifically for the penetration of body armour and for the MP-443 Grach pistol, the latest Russian service pistol.[23]

In the 7N31 9x19mm overpressure variant the same concept with a similar but lighter bullet that achieves higher muzzle velocity is applied. The 7N31 cartridge was developed in the late 1990s for the GSh-18 pistol. The 7N31 was also adopted for the PP-2000 submachine gun. Its maximum service pressure remains unclear.



Hope this helps

Best

T

[thegodfather]

Excellent article bro....

I keep my handguns, which are all chambered in .40, loaded with 165 gr. JHP Federal HydraShocks in the spring/summer months, and 180 gr. FMJ Federal American Eagle in the fall/winter months.

I think its important to mention that Federal's latest round is the HST, which is not the same as the HydraShock. Many people speculate about what "HST" stands for, as Federal has not stated, but most think it means "HydraShock Technology." It would be interesting if you could expand on the differences in penetration between jacketed hollow point, full metal jacket, jacketed soft point, etc, etc. Many people wrongly have the impression that hollow point bullets are "cop killers" and have the ability to penetrate bullet proof vests. The only true armor piercing bullets would be teflon tipped ammunition, which is not available to the common street gangster.

[The Deuce]

Bumping this because I FEEL IT NEEDS TO BE BUMPED.... So as when I awake in the morning, I can easily find it.. then EDIT this Post.. whereas stating what I want to say but just to goddamned tired to say it right now..

BTW... One of The Greater things I have read in my day.. Thanks T !! You da man ... man!!

[Researcher]

You definately know your stuff bro. I have pistols on calibers from .22 to 454 Casull. They all have their pro's and con's. My daily carry is a Glock 23.

[TITANIUM]

AMMUNITION FOR THE SELF-DEFENSE FIREARM

This is a guide to help you select the best ammunition for your defensive firearm. Most of these opinions are based upon the work of Massad Ayoob, Evan Marshall and Ed Sanow, police officers who have extensively studied the issue of firearms, ammunition and stopping power.


Some other authorities rely entirely on the latter (e.g. Dr. Martin Fackler, the FBI Wound Ballistics Lab, the National Institute of Justice Ballistic Research Laboratory) which is insufficient to make reliable predictions. Human beings react differently to being shot than gelatin, goats, or other test media, and bullets that perform spectacular feats in the laboratory sometimes give mediocre results on the street.

A perfect example of this are the silly 1989-90 FBI tests which resulted in the FBI choosing the mediocre 10mm S&W Model 1076 and the 180 grain JHP round. For this reason, I have chosen to rely on Ayoob, Marshall, and Sanow when it comes to selecting my ammunition and strongly advise you do the same. What follows is essentially a distillation of their opinions. I urge you to research the sources listed for a more detailed discussion than is possible here.

I cannot stress too heavily that the primary determinant of stopping power is BULLET PLACEMENT. A cool, deliberate marksman with a little .32 Walther PPK will beat a panicky, inaccurate man with a .357 Magnum or $1200 customized .45 auto every time. Whatever firearm and caliber you select, you must practice firing hundreds - thousands - of rounds in realistic defensive scenarios until you can confidently make disabling hits on your target. Tactics and marksmanship win gunfights - not having the latest 'wonder bullet' in your gun.

Unfortunately, I cannot teach you tactics in this short essay, only recommend proven ammunition. You MUST seek out competent training in tactics and marksmanship from a qualified instructor in your area. In the meanwhile, studying Ayoob's great book 'Stressfire' will get you off to an excellent start.

Self Defense Ammunition Generally

American ammunition is the best in the world. Stick to Federal, Cor-Bon, Hornady, Remington, Winchester or CCI ammunition. Some foreign stuff is pretty good (PMC, IMI-Samson, Fiocci), some foreign stuff is great (Dynamit-Nobel, Norma, GECO), some foreign stuff is practice-only junk (e.g. Wolf, CDM - Mexico, military surplus), but no foreign stuff is anywhere near as good as domestic ammunition when it comes to vanquishing hostile attackers. Buy American.

Never use hand-loaded or re-loaded ammunition for self-defense! You may encounter some joker who says he can hand-load ammunition so powerful it will knock anything on two legs down for the count, but don't buy it. This junk will either misfire or ruin your gun. Use only fresh factory-loaded cartridges, period. There are NO EXCEPTIONS to this rule: use factory-loaded cartridges only.

Handguns

One should carry only hollowpoint ammunition in a defensive handgun. Hollowpoint ammunition has much better stopping power than full metal jacket or round-nose lead, and stopping power is what you need when being assaulted.

The point is not to wound or kill the adversary: the point is to stop him in his tracks and make him cease attacking you. "Stopping power" (sometimes called "knock-down power") refers to a particular bullet's ability to incapacitate an attacker - the greater that ability, the less chance that your attacker will be able to continue shooting, stabbing, or beating you after you have shot him.

Handguns are not death-rays; despite what you see in the movies, the vast majority of people shot with handguns survive (over 80%). Handguns are weak compared to rifles and shotguns, and thus you want every edge you can get. Great ammunition is no more expensive than mediocre ammunition, so carry the best. Rifles and shotguns have stopping power to spare; handguns do not. Thus you must select your handgun load very carefully, and the detail of the handgun ammunition section reflects this.

Hollowpoint ammunition is NOT more lethal than ball (full metal jacket) ammunition. You may have seen media hype about "killer dum-dum bullets" but this is nonsense. Hollowpoint bullets usually expand and stop in the human body, and thus the attacker absorbs much more of the bullet's kinetic energy than if the bullet had merely zipped through him and left two small holes. Hollowpoint ammunition is also safer for all parties concerned.

* You are safer because your attacker is more likely to be incapacitated after one or two shots and thus unable to fire back, stab you, or whatever. The decreased likelihood of your attacker dying from hollowpoint bullets saves you the moral and legal complications and expense you will experience from killing a man.
* Innocent bystanders are safer because hollowpoint bullets are less likely to exit the attacker's body and go on to injure anyone else. The ricochet danger is also much lower than that of ball ammunition, and hollowpoint bullets are less likely to penetrate walls or doors and strike uninvolved third parties. Furthermore, if your foe is incapacitated quickly he won't be spraying wild bullets around, endangering uninvolved third parties.
* Lastly, your attacker is safer because he is far less likely to die from one or two hollowpoint bullets than the five or six round-nose slugs you would have had to fire to put him down. Most gunshot deaths occur from shock and loss of blood, and ball rounds tend to make entry and exit wounds, whereas hollowpoints go in and stay put. An attacker shot twice with ball ammo will probably have four holes in him rather than two, and is thus in far greater danger of death from blood loss. If you can avoid killing your attacker you should, for both moral and legal reasons.

There are some exceptions to the "carry only hollowpoints in a handgun" rule. Some older or cheaper automatic pistols, will jam with hollowpoint rounds. With these guns one must use ball rounds (or "full metal jacket" rounds - the terms are synonymous), and I specify "reliable with ball only" models by caliber. It is crucial for you to test your pistol to make certain it is reliable with specific loads - don't rely on my advice. My life will never depend on the reliability of your handgun. Your life may.


Rifles

Generally speaking, fast expanding bullets are the best choice for rifles. Hollow point and plastic tipped bullets usually expand rapidly. Some soft-point designs are recommended, and these will be specified.

Shotguns

Use buckshot. Slugs and birdshot are useful in some limited and uncommon situations.

A Note On Exotic Ammunition

There are several exotic ammunition designs on the market today, such as the Glaser Safety Slug, Mag-Safe, GECO BAT 9mm, Thunderzap, et cetera. Generally speaking, I recommend that you avoid them. Exotic ammunition is expensive, inaccurate, and often unreliable. These rounds cost so much ($2-$4 each) that you will never practice with them and thus will not be certain of their reliability and accuracy in your gun. This is a big mistake: you should not carry a particular type of ammunition until you have fired at least 150 rounds through your semi-automatic gun to ensure reliable feeding (this doesn't really apply to revolvers, but you should still fire the ammunition you intend to carry to assure yourself of its accuracy).

'Glaser Safety Slugs' are one exotic round I can fully recommend, but only for revolvers in a few scenarios. The Glaser is a proven man-stopper and has very good quality control, but may not feed or cycle reliably in your automatic pistol. Because you cannot afford to fire enough Glasers to establish that it feeds reliably in your pistol (i.e. 100 test-fire rounds will cost $300), I cannot recommend them for pistol owners (if you insist on Glasers, carry one in the chamber and load the magazine with a proven hollowpoint. Be aware, however, that the Glaser may not have the power to cycle your slide, and thus you may be carrying a single-shot gun. You can always cycle the slide manually, of course, but this takes time and both hands; two things you may not be able to spare when fighting for your life. The Walther PPK, H&K P7 series and SIG P230 are notorious for this failure-to-cycle problem with Glaser Safety Slugs).

With revolvers feeding is not an issue, of course, but there are other factors to consider. The Glaser is designed for easy break-up and minimal penetration, which is great for cutting down ricochet and over-penetration dangers but drastically limits its ability to penetrate light cover between you and your foe. A car window, hollow-core door, or even thick winter clothing between you and your assailant can cause the Glaser to disintegrate and leave him unharmed. Bad news for you....great news for him.

There are some situations where the Glaser is a good choice, however. I keep my bedside .357 revolver loaded with .38 Special+P Glasers because I live in a thin-walled apartment building and want to be able to put down an intruder rapidly without worrying about injuring my neighbors. I chose .38 over .357 Magnums because I am likely to be in a just-awakened daze and would rather not be blinded and disoriented by the flash, kick and blast of firing a .357 Magnum in a (probably darkened) room. You may have a similar situation (e.g. retail store defense) where injury to third parties is of concern, and you'll likely be facing an assailant at extremely close range where the Glaser's inaccuracy and inability to penetrate cover will not be drawbacks. In these narrowly defined scenarios, the Glaser is a good choice, but keep a couple of speedloaders of hollowpoints handy, just in case. I do.

Glaser Safety Slugs are available in "Blue" or "Silver" versions. The latter are a little heavier for better penetration, but performance is similar. I would be happy with either, but Sanow prefers the Silver. It's up to you.

Mag-Safes are imitations of Glasers, and I cannot recommend them due to poor quality control. Reliability is the number one requirement of a self-defense handgun, and Mag-Safes don't make the grade.

GECO "Blitz Action Trauma" or BAT 9mm rounds from Germany are a proven design. Called the "GECO Action Safety" in Europe, this is a high velocity (1400 feet per second) lightweight (86 grain) hollow bullet that has proven itself to be very reliable and successful on the street. I recommend them, but they are very tough to find. Save yourself the trouble and use a good American-made hollowpoint.

Other exotics are best avoided. You may occasionally encounter "Thunderzaps," "Omni-Shocks," "Terminators," "Annihilators," "Kaswer Law Grabbers," and other such marginalia in gun shops. Stay away. If you want to gamble, go to an Indian reservation. Don't gamble with your life, or the lives of others. Glasers and GECO 9mm BATs are the only proven exotics.

Terminology

I have tried to keep specialized technical jargon to a minimum, but it will be helpful for you to understand a few terms and acronyms:

- 'Ball' is round-nosed metal jacketed ammunition. It is used for self-loading firearms like pistols. All military pistol and rifle ammunition uses full metal jacket bullets. Synonyms for ball include FMJ ("full metal jacket"), MC ("metal case") and TMJ ("totally metal jacketed," a term used only by the ammunition maker CCI). Ball rounds do not expand and are always the worst choice in a defensive round. The military uses ball because it feeds well (i.e. rarely jams), penetrates far, and the military is required to use ball under the Geneva Convention. Fortunately, you are free to choose better ammunition, and should use ball for practice only.

- 'Wadcutters' and 'semi-wadcutters' are sharp-shouldered revolver bullets with an odd cylindrical appearance. True wadcutters are very weak rounds used for target shooting only. Unless you own a .38 or .357 revolver, forget about these.

- 'Jacketed soft-points' are jacketed bullets with exposed lead at the tip. These make poor defensive rounds for handguns but may be effective for rifles, due to the latter's high velocity. Never use JSP rounds in a handgun for self-defense. Never.

- 'Jacketed hollowpoints' are the best choice for handguns and most rifles. JHP rounds have a hollow cavity in the nose and usually expand (and stop) in the body of your attacker, transferring all their kinetic energy for maximum stopping power. They are the safest and best bullets available. JHP bullets are always best for self-defense.

-'Round-nose lead' (or RNL) are generally revolver bullets without any metal jacket around the bullet. These are worthless for self-defense, and I don't even use them at the range. If you come upon a bargain lot of RNL ammo, feel free to buy it for target practice. You will be scrubbing out your barel until the wee hours, however, as all-lead bullets scum up barrels something fierce. Use 'Flitz' metal polish to scour out the grimy residue.



HANDGUN AMMUNITION BY CALIBER

(Note: for an excellent and comprehensive look at the best handgun rounds by caliber, see the article 'What Are The Best Loads For Defense?' by Ed Sanow in the July, 1995 issue of Petersen's 'HANDGUNS' magazine)

.22 Long Rifle

You should really be using something bigger than a .22 for self-defense, but even a .22 beats nothing. There are some really nice .22 pocket autos, and they make a lot of sense for women reluctant to tote a bigger gun around. Choose any Federal, Remington, Winchester or CCI copper-plated 37 grain (or lighter) high velocity hollowpoint round. I recommend CCI "Stinger" 32-gr. or Remington "Yellow Jacket" 33-gr. hollowpoints, as they have been very reliable in my Beretta 21A and Walther TPH pistols and have the highest stopping power ratings.

Shoot a lot of rounds through your self-defense .22, the ammo is cheap and you want to be sure to pick a reliable round. If high-velocity solids don't cycle reliably try standard-velocity. There is little difference in power but it may improve your gun's reliability (e.g. Jennings J-22 pistols are more reliable with standard-velocity solids). Marksmanship is crucial with such a tiny gun, so practice drawing your .22 and firing it rapidly into a melon at ten feet or so. Also keep your .22 autoloader meticulously clean - these tiny guns cannot function reliably with much gunk in them. If you carry your .22 in a pocket, purse or ankle holster inspect it daily and brush off any dust or grit with an old toothbrush. Lubricate it properly, too. This is very important.

.25 ACP (6.35mm)

The best .25 load is the Hornady 35-gr. XTP-HP round. If it jams, use any Federal, Remington, or Winchester 50 grain ball round. Winchester has an odd 45 gr. "Expanding Point" round that should be OK if it is reliable in your gun (it seems to work fine in Beretta 950 pistols, for example), but don't expect any improvement in performance over the 50 grain ball rounds. The excellent Walther TPH .25 should be loaded with ball.

The Hornady 35 grain JHP should be considered only if it is 100% reliable in your pistol - fire 200 rounds through your gun to see. Ed Sanow recommends the MagSafe 22 grain "Defender" and Glaser 40 grain Safety Slug.

.32 ACP (7.65 mm Browning, 7.65x17mm)

Use the Winchester 60 gr. Silvertip Jacketed Hollow Point (X32ASHP) if it is reliable in your gun. I personally would only carry Silvertips in a Seecamp LWS .32. Most of the common .32 autos on the market are only reliable with 71 grain ball: Llama, Walther PP and PPK, Czech CZ-24 and CZ-70, Davis P-32, Colt Pocket Model, Mauser HSc, etc.

.32 Smith & Wesson Long

The best defense load for this obsolescent revolver caliber is the Federal 98 gr. lead wadcutter (32LA). Shoot carefully.

.32 H&R Magnum

Federal 85 gr. Jacketed Hollow Point (C32HRB).

7.62x25mm (a.k.a. 7.63mm Mauser)

If you're using this obsolescent communist caliber I can only assume that you have an old CZ-52 or Chinese Tokarev. Only 87 gr. ball ammo is available, so leave the cheap Chinese military stuff for practice and carry Fiocchi 7.63 Mauser ball in your gun.

.380 ACP (9mm Short, 9x17mm, 9mm Kurz)

Now we're getting into some decent stopping power. The three or four best .380 JHP rounds have better stopping power than ANY bullet fired out of 2" barrel .38 Special snub-nose. All of the Big Five make good hollowpoints for this caliber. The Remington 88 grain JHP is the most reliably-feeding hollowpoint but slightly less effective than the Hydra-shok or Cor-Bon. Reliability is crucial, and thus you must test the rounds before carrying.

I recommend the following two cartridges above all others:

-Federal 90 gr. Hydra-shok (P380HS1 H) - the best standard-pressure .380 JHP load, period.
-Cor-Bon 90 gr. JHP - the most powerful .380 hollowpoint, bar none.

These are the two best .380 loads, and I recommend them for these guns:
SIG/Sauer P230, Beretta 84/85, Browning BDA, CZ-83, H&K P7K3, Walther PPK and PPK/s. The Russian, East German, Chinese and Bulgarian Makarov pistols are apparently perfectly reliable with the hot Cor-Bon, and the strong all-steel construction of these guns should stand up to an infinite amount of these potent rounds. I have heard that the Colt does also well with the hot Cor-Bon JHP, which you should definitely look into if you own a Colt .380. You have better stopping power than any .38 snub-nose revolver (the long-time favorite concealment sidearm) when you load your .380 with these two rounds.

Other good .380 ACP jacketed hollowpoints:

- Remington 102 gr. Golden Saber BJHP (GS380M) - Another excellent .380 load (the BJHP stands for "Brass Jacketed Hollow Point"), the heaviest one available. I prefer the Cor-Bon and Hydra-shok, but many (including Sanow) like this new Remington round for its deeper penetration. I'll stick with the Cor-Bon and Hydra-shok, but the choice is yours.
- CCI-Speer 90 gr. Gold Dot JHP A good all-around hollowpoint.
- Remington 88 gr. JHP (R380AI): A good high-velocity hollowpoint that feeds well in: Colt Government Model .380, H&K HK4, Taurus PT-58, older PP and PPK, Bersa .380, Beretta 70s, Makarov and Hungarian FEG. These are all good guns that might choke on other hollowpoints but they will probably feed the Remington fine. This hollowpoint was redesigned in 1993 and gives excellent performance while retaining its rounded shape for positive feeding. If your .380 chokes on other JHP loads, try fifty rounds of the Remington 88 gr. through your gun and see if it improves.

.380 ACP hollowpoints to avoid:

-Winchester 85 gr Silvertip (X380ASHP) I really cannot recommend this weak and jam-prone round. It works reliably in a few modern European guns (e.g. SIG 230, Beretta 84F), but every load named above offers better performance. The Silvertip will likely jam in any American-made .380 automatic. Russian .380 Makarovs and PPK series guns may jam with the Silvertip, as well. The .380 Silvertip was once state-of-the-art, but has since been superceded by superior designs. It is also quite expensive. Look elsewhere.
- PMC-Eldorado Starfire 95 gr. JHP This round is similarly weak and jam-prone.
- Federal 90 gr. JHP (380BP) (see below)
- Hornady 90 gr. XTP-HP (9010) Both the Federal 380BP and the Hornady XTP-HP never expand and may jam many guns due to their truncated-cone bullet nose profiles. Pass by these two.

95 gr ball:

Davis P-380, Accu-Tek, EAA .380, Tanarmi, AMT/OMC/TDE "Back-Up," Heritage, FIE, Jennings, Bryco, Lorcin, Llama, or "other." Hollowpoints should never be used in these low-priced guns.

9mm Makarov (9x18mm)

-Cor-Bon makes an excellent 95 grain JHP that is totally reliable in all East Bloc pistols.
-Hornady offers a 95 grain JHP/XTP (#91002).

.38 Special

Loads for Full-Sized .38 Revolvers With 4" or Longer Barrels: The Numero Uno .38 Special defense load for your 4" barrel revolver is the Cor-Bon .38 Special+P 125 grain JHP. It is a very high-pressure load and should be used only in modern six-shot revolvers. It has less felt recoil and muzzle flip than the #2 choice, which follows. When I carry a 4" .38, I want it loaded with this cartridge.

The second-best choice is the .38 Special +P 158 grain lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoint (LSWCHP) available from Federal, CCI, Winchester and Remington. Ayoob has found the latter to have the greatest expansion, so I would choose Remington (catalog #R38S12). This unjacketed all-lead round (often called the "FBI load" or "Chicago load") is a proven manstopper when fired from a 4" barrel. Your fixed-sight .38 revolver it will usually shoot to point-of-aim with this load; lighter bullets will normally shoot low (some very low). All fixed-sight .38s are regulated at the factory to shoot accurately with standard velocity 158 grain bullets, as this was the weight of the long-time standard American and Canadian police load.

* Federal makes the FBI load in their Nyclad line covered with a thin Nylon jacket to prevent leading (#P38G). This is now a police only load. The all-lead version is #38G.
* CCI offers the famous FBI load in their economical aluminum-cased Blazer line (#3523). This is a bargain. What I really recommend, however, is that for practice you use the CCI Blazer 158 grain JACKETED hollowpoint (#3526) because it duplicates the ballistics and recoil of the FBI load without fouling your barrel with hard-to-scrub-out lead deposits. These are a bitch to clean (I use 'Flitz' metal polish with good results. It will also remove unsightly "burn rings" from the cylinder face of your stainless-steel revolver).

Note: .38 Special ammunition is loaded to two pressure levels: standard pressure and +P. Standard pressure loads may be used in any .38 Special revolver, but +P loads should be fired extensively only in steel-frame .38 Special revolvers. Firing a few (under fifty) +P loads in your aluminum-framed .38 Special revolver will not destroy it or cause it to explode, but will damage your aluminum-framed revolver if you fire more than a hundred rounds. The main problem with carrying +P .38 Special loads in an aluminum-framed .38 Special revolver is that the kick is nasty and slows repeat shots. Thus I recommend standard pressure ammunition for aluminum-framed .38 Special revolvers, as it is much easier to score fast hits.

Other .38 Special Loads for Your 4" Barrel Revolver:

IMI-Samson also offers a lightweight, very high pressure load, the 110 gr. +P+ JHP. This is said to be a ballistic duplicate of the law-enforcement-only "Treasury" load that T-men used to carry. Who cares? The Cor-Bon 125 gr. +P load is superior. And never use any 147 grain bullet in any caliber. They are cursed.

All major manufacturers catalog light .38 +P hollowpoints, from 95-129 grains. None of these are as successful as the Cor-Bon .38 Special +P 125 grain JHP or 158 grain +P LSWCHP, so why carry them? Light +P loads only make sense in a 2" barrel snub (more on this later). The Federal Hydra-shok and Winchester Silvertip may look cool, but the boring-looking Cor-Bon and FBI loads do the job in a 4" revolver. Stick with them.

PMC makes a bizarre 66 grain tubular hollow bullet load. Some enthusiastic gun-shop salesman may try to sell it to you. Refuse politely. Also avoid the Remington 95 grain +P SJHP (R38S1) due to inadequate penetration.

The Glaser Safety Slug is a good choice for self-defense in a .38 revolver of any barrel length (see caveats under "exotic ammunition," above). It is crucial to keep the chambers and frame interior absolutely free of oil or solvents when carrying Glasers, as you don't want any Breakfree CLP or Hoppe's #9 solvent seeping into the primer pocket and deactivating the round. This is important for all rounds, of course, but the Glaser isn't known for particularly good sealing against such mishaps. You may also want to consider carrying two Glasers as the first rounds to be fired, and JHP loads for the rest. This gives you a bit of insurance if your assailant tucks himself behind a sheet rock wall or doorway or some other flimsy cover that JHP rounds can blast through.

A Special Note on Snub-Nose .38 Revolvers With 2" or 3" Barrels: The Cor-Bon .38 Special +P 125 grain JHP and 158 grain LSWCHP FBI load are not the best choice for 2" or 3" barrel revolvers. The short barrel does not provide enough velocity to ensure reliable expansion with these load, and the unpleasant and hard-to-control recoil hurts snub-nose accuracy (as well as your hand). Controllability is crucial, and I recommend non +P standard pressure loads, for the .38 snub-nose.

Good +P choices for a steel-frame 2" .38 snub-nose revolver are:

* Federal 125 grain +P Nyclad LSWHP (P38N) - my preferred .38 2" barrel snub-nose revolver load (a.k.a. the "Chief's Special" load, now available only to the police).
* Federal 129 grain +P Hydra-shok JHP (P38HS1)
* Remington 125 grain +P Golden Saber HPJ (GS38SB)
* Cor-Bon 110 grain +P JHP - I would recommend this high-pressure load only for the sturdy (and heavy) Ruger SP101 snub-nose .38 or .357 Magnum revolver.

Standard Pressure (non +P) Loads.

If you carry an aluminum-frame snub nose .38 (e.g. S&W Model 38 Bodyguard, 642, 442, 37, or Colt Cobra) I urge you to carry a standard pressure (non +P) .38 round. The best standard pressure .38 load is the Federal 125 grain Nyclad lead hollowpoint (P38M). This P38M hollowpoint - known as the "Chief's Special load" - was specifically designed to expand at lower velocities and is the industry leader in standard pressure .38 rounds. This load is now available to police departments only.

Another acceptable standard pressure .38 load is the Winchester Silvertip 110 grain JHP (X38S9HP). A third possibility is the Federal Low Recoil Personal Defense 110 grain Hydra-Shok JHP load (PD38HS3 H)

Note well: if you have a J-frame Smith & Wesson snub-nose .38 (i.e. the five-shot Model 36/37 Chief's Special, Model 38/49/649 Bodyguard, the 640/642/442/940 Centennial) you can greatly improve the controllability of your gun by installing Uncle Mike's "Boot Grip." This is a $14 godsend. The skinny little wooden grips that come on these guns are worthless. Installing good grips does wonders for your ability to control your .38 snub-nose revolver in rapid fire for more hits.

9mm Parabellum (9mm Luger,9x19mm, 9mm NATO, or simply "9mm")

This is unquestionably the world's most popular pistol round. For this reason it has been the subject of a lot of experimentation, because 9mm ball - used by every army in the Western world - is a mediocre manstopper. Jacketed hollowpoints are a must if one wishes to rely on the 9mm as a defense round. Use ball ammo for practice only.

9mm ammunition is available in two pressure levels: standard and "+P." The latter should only be used in newer guns (made since 1985 or so), and is best used sparingly. I will deal here with only commercially available ammunition: there are specialized loads available only to law enforcement personnel. Civilians should not worry, as there are commercial loads as good or better than anything restricted to law enforcement usage.

I will now tell you the best 9mm Luger load for self-defense: it is the Cor-Bon 9mm 115 grain +P Jacketed Hollowpoint. This is the most powerful and street-proven manstopper available in this caliber. It is a high velocity (1340 fps) and high pressure round, and more effective than any load restricted to law enforcement use (such as the Federal 9BPLE).

Unfortunately, it is also likely to jam many older guns. For this reason I add a table at the end of the 9mm section discussing round suitability for different guns. Modern hollowpoints may either (a) jam, or (b) be too powerful for some older guns. This load is suitable only for First Class pistols (see table).

The best standard pressure 9mm load is the Federal 115 grain JHP (9BP). Its effectiveness and accuracy make it the world standard. Buy several boxes. Other excellent standard pressure 9mm loads are the Winchester Silvertip 115 grain (X9MMSHP), and Federal 124 grain Hydra-shok (P9HS1).

For guns that may jam with the Cor-Bon or Federal 115 grain hollow-points, the Remington 115 grain +P JHP is a good choice (R9MM6). For older guns I would use the Remington standard pressure 115 gr. JHP (R9MM1).

Now it is time to impart some crucial information: NEVER use 147 grain ammo in a 9mm pistol! There was a stupid fad for 147 grain hollowpoints a few years ago, and many were suckered into buying these weak, worthless and malfunction-prone rounds. I don't care what you've heard: never use any 9mm hollowpoint heavier than 125 grains. 147 grain hollowpoints often jam in many popular 9mm guns like the Browning Hi-Power, SIG, Beretta 92, S&W and Glock. Ignore the gun magazine hype and stick to what works. If you want to gamble, go to Reno. Don't gamble with your life. 147 grain ammo sucks.

[TITANIUM]

Bad 9mm Loads to avoid (and certainly NEVER carry). Numbers given:

Federal Gold Medal 9mm 147 grain JHP (9MS)
Federal Hydra-Shok 9mm 147 grain JHP (P9HS2)
Winchester 147 grain 9mm Silvertip Subsonic JHP (X9MMST147)
Winchester 147 grain 9mm Super-X Subsonic (XSUB9MM)
Remington 147 grain 9mm JHP (R9MM8)
Remington 147 grain 9mm Golden Saber JHP (GS9MMC)
Remington 140 grain 9mm JHP (R9MM7)
Remington 88 grain 9mm JHP (R9MM5) This bullet is far too light.
CCI Lawman 147 grain 9mm PHP "Plated Hollow Point" (3619)

Table Of 9mm Pistols.

(Note: just because your pistol appears in Class 3, say, doesn't mean it is unreliable: it may indeed feed hollowpoints. But you must fire at least 200 rounds of your chosen JHP carry load to determine if your pistol will feed them properly. I have placed pistols in each category according to reputation and experience. These are only meant as guidelines - your pistol may feed JHP rounds better - or worse - than this table indicates)

First Class pistols are ultra-reliable and high-quality new guns than can feed any hollowpoint and tolerate +P loads with no problems: SIG/Sauer P220 series. Czech CZ75 and CZ85. Walther P5, P5C, and P88. Heckler and Koch USP and P7 series. All Glocks. All Ruger 9mm pistols. Taurus PT-99, PT-92 and PT-92C. Steyr GB. Beretta 92 series. Browning BDM and Hi-Power (if it says "Portugal" on the slide). All Smith & Wessons with a four-digit model number (e.g. 5906, 3913, 6904, 5***) and the Smith & Wesson 900 series. Star M28, M30, M31, and all Firestars, Megastars, and Ultrastars.

Second Class pistols are high quality guns that may not feed all hollowpoints reliably. Remington 115 gr. hollowpoints are recommended for these guns: Smith & Wessons with two or three digit model numbers (e.g. 659, 39-2, 469, 59, 39). Heckler and Koch VP70 and P9S. Beretta "Brigadier" M1951 and the Egyptian copy, the Interarms "Helwan." Colt M2000 "All-American" (now discontinued, for good reason), Colt Series 70 Government Model, Series 70 Commander. Astra A-70, A-75 and A-100. AMT "On Duty." Daewoo. Bersa 'Thunder 9'. EAA Witness, and all other CZ-75 copies (e.g. Tanfoglio, Tanarmi, Springfield Armory P9). Taurus PT-908. Walther P4. Star BK, BKM, Model B and 'Super.' Browning Hi-Powers without the word "Portugal" on the slide. Llama Model 82. IMI "Jericho" and "Kareen."

Third Class pistols should generally be loaded with ball for best reliability - experiment with your gun extensively before carrying JHP: Walther P38, P4 or P1. Luger. Llama. Maverick. MKS Model JS. Intratec CAT-9, DC-9, KG-9, etc. SWD Cobray Model 11/9 and similar models. Scarab Scorpion. Kimel AP-9. Bryco Jennings Model 59. All KBI Hungarian pistols (e.g. GKK, PJ9C, P9HK and other "FEG" products). "Norinco" or "Sportarms" Chinese Tokarev pistols. Lahti. Radom. MAB P15 and Model 1950.

.38 Super

Cor-Bon, Winchester and Remington all make good jacketed hollow-points in .38 Super. I like the Cor-Bon 115 and 124 grain hollowpoints the best. The Remington will feed more smoothly in many guns, however, especially Colts and Colt M1911A1 copies like the Springfield Armory and Auto-Ordnance. The Llama .38 Super tends to jam with anything except ball.

.357 Magnum

The most effective handgun round on the market - regardless of caliber - is the Federal .357 Magnum 125 grain jacketed hollowpoint (357B). This load has more stopping power than any other handgun bullet (and this includes more powerful rounds like the .41 and .44 Magnums). I advise all experienced revolver men to carry the legendary Federal 357B in a .357 revolver, or the equally good Remington full-power 125 grain semi-jacketed hollowpoint (R357M1).

There is one caveat, however. The 357B and other full-power .357 Magnums have a lot of blast and kick. If you are not comfortable with the buck and roar of full-house .357 Magnums, I would strongly suggest that you use a lower-recoil round. Controllability is important, and you will be able to fire lower-recoil rounds more rapidly and accurately. All of these .357 loads have excellent stopping power, so don't worry that you are giving up too much.

In descending order of severity of recoil (i.e. the Silvertip kicks the most) I recommend the Winchester Silvertip 145 grain JHP (X357SHP), The Remington Golden Saber 125 grain JHP (GS357MA), Federal 110 gr. JHP (357D), Remington Medium Velocity 125 grain Semi-Jacketed Hollowpoint (R357M11) and the Cor-Bon 110 grain JHP. The latter two are excellent rounds I strongly recommend for .357 Magnum 2.5" and 3" barrel snub-nose revolvers like the S&W Models 66, 19, 65, 13, the Colt King Cobra, the Ruger GP100 and especially the small-frame Ruger SP101. If you still find that your .357 kicks too much, carry the Cor-Bon .38 Special+P 110 grain JHP discussed above. Two or three hits with good .38+P slugs beat any number of misses with .357 slugs.

Note well: if you are using the factory wood stocks on your S&W or Taurus .357 revolver, you should try a set of rubber replacement grips. Ruger and Colt .357 Magnums come factory-equipped with recoil-absorbing ergodynamic rubber grips, and I have no idea why S&W and Taurus continue to put wood grips on their .357 revolvers. The difference in control is enormous. Get some good, compact rubber grips from Uncle Mike's or Pachmayr and slap them onto your .357 revolver ASAP. I used to cringe every time I fired a full-power load in my .357 Magnum snub-nose. Once I put some compact Pachmayr grips on it, however, I had no problem firing the 357B accurately and rapidly. These grips only cost twenty bucks. Buy some.)

Other good .357 Magnum loads.

The 125 grain jacketed hollowpoints by Cor-Bon, Winchester, and CCI are all good stoppers. The CCI Blazer 125 grain jacketed hollow-point is a very good buy, both for practice and self-defense use. The 110 grain jacketed hollowpoints by Winchester, CCI and Remington are all good for use in snub-nose revolvers, or for those sensitive to recoil. You never go wrong with a 110-125 grain .357 jacketed hollowpoint from the Big Five. All are great stoppers.

Crappy .357 Magnum loads you should not carry for self-defense.

Never carry soft-points, semi-wadcutters, or any of the 158 grain or 180 grain jacketed hollowpoints - these are solely for hunting or target use. Stick to jacketed hollowpoints under 150 grains in weight. The heavier bullets kick heavily and will shoot high and confuse you. All-lead bullets are okay for practice but you will have to spend twice as long cleaning your gun.

.357 SIG

I am unsure what advantage this caliber is supposed to have over the .40 S&W, but it is a good stopper. .357 SIG ballistics are quite impressive. Suggested loads:

-Federal 125 grain jacketed hollowpoint (P357S1)
-Hornady 124 grain JHP/XTP (#9130)
-Remington 125 grain JHP (R357S1).

.40 Smith & Wesson

This caliber has established an excellent track record on the street. Smith & Wesson and Winchester really did their research when they invented the .40 S&W. Your choice comes down to either the 180 grain jacketed hollowpoints or the 135-155 grain jacketed hollowpoints by Cor-Bon, Winchester, Federal, CCI or Remington. All are good stoppers, but the lighter weight bullets have the best stopping power records on the streets.

The real-world shooting database clearly favors the lighter 135-155 gr. JHP loads. I personally would carry the potent Cor-Bon 135 or 150 grain jacketed hollowpoint or the Winchester Silvertip 155 grain jacketed hollowpoint (X40SWSTHP). The 135-155 grain JHP kicks less and has higher kinetic energy and stopping power than the 180 gr. JHP loads. The 135 gr. JHP appears to be a real stopper.

In short, you cannot go wrong with the .40 S&W - unless you carry ball. Choose a good hollowpoint and stick with it. Leave the ball for practice (the CCI Blazer 180 grain TMJ is a good inexpensive practice round).

10mm Auto

The 10mm is not living up to expectations. It was thought to be the ne plus ultra of pistol rounds when introduced in the late 1980's, but hasn't turned out to be superior to the better 9mm, .40 S&W or .45 ACP jacketed hollowpoints. This isn't to say that the 10mm Auto sucks - it is a fine stopper. It's just that we hoped for so much more.

10mm Auto ammunition is available in two power levels, "full-house" and "medium velocity," as used by the FBI (sometimes called "10mm Lite"). The "full-house" loads should be left for hunting use: they kick heavily, blow right through assailants, and are very hard on your gun. Stick to the medium velocity ammo. I would pick the Cor-Bon 135 grain Nosler JHP, Federal 155 grain JHP (10E), or Federal Hydra-shok 155 gr. JHP (P40HS2). The "FBI load" is the 180 grain subsonic JHP, and Federal, Winchester, and Remington all produce good ones. Take your pick, but you are silly to ignore the superior real-world performance of the lighter 135-155 grain jacketed hollowpoints.

The potent Winchester Silvertip 175 grain JHP (X10MMSTHP) is close in power to the "full-house" loads, and may be a good choice for an experienced shooter who is used to heavy recoil. I personally would only carry the Silvertip or "full-house" loads in the field, where I might have to shoot big, cranky animals that seem interested in munching on my bodily parts. In this role the 10mm auto excels.

.41 Magnum

The best defense choice for this hard-kicking caliber is the Winchester Silvertip 175 grain JHP (X41MSTHP2). The Remington 170 grain Semi-Jacketed Hollowpoint (R41MG3) is also a good round.

.44 Special

By far the best choice for your .44 Special revolver is the Cor-Bon 180 grain JHP. Glasers or the Winchester Silvertip 200 grain JHP (X44STHPS2) are also good rounds, particularly for any 5-shot .44 revolver.

.44 Magnum

The blast and kick of this powerful caliber make it less than optimum for defense use, despite what you have seen in the movies. Cor-Bon's 180 grain or Federal's 180 grain (44B) medium-velocity JHP are the hands-down choices in this caliber. Glasers, the Winchester Silvertip 210 grain JHP (X44MSTHP2) or the Federal 240 grain Hydra-shok (P44HS1) are also acceptable choices.

.45 ACP (occassionally called "11.43x23mm" by some silly Europeans)

The .45 ACP is a recognized manstopper, and there are many excellent loads in this caliber. Some of the best:

- Federal 230 grain Hydrashok JHP (P45HS1): a great load, and my #1 choice. It gives the most stopping power in this potent caliber.
- Federal 185 grain JHP (45C) another top-notch load from Federal. I would choose this round for a compact, short-barrelled .45 like the Colt Officer's ACP or the S&W 4516. It has lighter recoil than the Hydrashok or CCI 200 JHP, and its higher velocity makes it more likely to expand out of a short 3.5" barrel.
- Cor-Bon 185 grain Sierra JHP
- CCI Lawman 200 gr. JHP (3965). a.k.a. the "Inspector" or "Flying Ashtray."
- CCI Blazer 200 gr. JHP (3568). The "Flying Ashtray" in an economical aluminum case. Both of these CCI loads use a wide-mouth hollowpoint bullet that may jam some guns. It is 100% reliable in newer guns like the current production "enhanced" Colt 1911A1, the SIG/Sauer P220, Star M45 Firestar and Megastar, and all Smith & Wesson, Para-Ordnance, and Ruger .45 automatics and the Smith & Wesson Model 625 revolver. (Note well: if you are one of those knuckleheads who install light springs in your gun to get a lighter trigger pull you are asking for trouble. Never use CCI ammo in such a gun, as CCI uses especially hard primers and your hammer might not be able to detonate the round reliably, now that you have monkeyed with it.)
- Remington 185 grain JHP (R45AP2). This is the best choice for older guns that may jam with other hollow-points. I would select this load for the Heckler and Koch P9S, Browning BDA, Springfield Armory, AMT and Thompson M1911A1, Llama, Star PD, etc.
- Cor-Bon and Remington .45+P 185 grain JHP (R45AP6). These are very powerful and hard-kicking rounds best left to the experienced shooter. They are pretty hard on your gun, especially an aluminum-framed pistol like the SIG/Sauer P220 or Colt Lightweight Commander. If you are sufficiently expert to confidently carry the .45+P you certainly don't need my advice on load selection. That being said, these +P rounds are second only to the famed Hydra-shok in stopping power. They really sledgehammer the bad guys down.

Other good .45 ACP loads.

The Winchester Silvertip 185 grain JHP (X45ASHP2), CCI Gold Dot and Remington Golden Saber (GS45APB) are all good choices. If you like them, fine, but they have no edge over loads mentioned above. I say stick to the tried and true.

Ball.

Save the 230 grain ball (FMJ) loads for practice; carry FMJ ammo only if you must because your gun jams with hollowpoints. The Llama, Federal Ordnance, AMT, and Auto-Ordnance M1911A1 copies often jam with anything except 230 grain ball. Never compromise when it comes to reliability: if your gun only feeds ball, then ball is what you carry.

.45 Colt

I hope your self-defense .45 Colt is a good double-action design like the Smith & Wesson Model 25 and not some single-action hunting gun. Load your revolver with the Cor-Bon 200 grain JHP. The Federal 225 gr. Lead Semi-Wadcutter Hollowpoint (45LCA) or Winchester 225 gr. Silvertip JHP (X45CSHP2) are also good.



SHOTGUN AMMUNITION BY CALIBER (Gauge)

The shotgun is the ne plus ultra of manstoppers. No doubt you have heard a lot of nonsense about the lethality of "assault rifles" and "sub-machine guns" and the like. The fact is that the shotgun is the most effective firearm for short-range personal defense. For example: an Uzi or Heckler & Koch sub-machine gun has about 340 ft-lbs. of impact energy - a 12 gauge shotgun has 2500 to 3100 ft-lbs. of impact energy.

The shotgun is not a magic weapon that will slay all foes. Like all other guns, it must be aimed at a specific target. Buckshot loads will not "sweep" a room. "Close" still only counts in horseshoes. Aim your shotgun from the shoulder (like a rifle) if you intend to hit an aggressor.

I invoke the Ascended Master, Massad Ayoob: "It is perhaps the most efficient close-range killing machine in the world's arsenal of small arms." For a discussion of the shotgun's strengths and weaknesses I refer all interested parties to Ayoob's excellent and comprehensive book 'The Truth About Self-Protection' (truly the best $8.95 investment you'll ever make), which discusses every element of self-defense from locks, chemical sprays and alarms to defensive driving, firearms and defending yourself against dogs. A more in-depth treatment of the issue may be found in Ayoob's book-length volume on shotgun technique, 'Stressfire II: Advanced Combat Shotgun'.

A Note On Terminology

Shotgun ammunition falls into three general categories:

BUCKSHOT - shell loaded with large-diameter lead balls (.24" and up) used for big game hunting and self-defense. The number of pellets in 12 gauge buck-shot varies from eight .36" balls in "000 buck" to 27 .24" pellets in "#4 buck". Buckshot ratings are archaic and hard to understand (as are shotgun specifications and ammunition in general), but thankfully there isn't much you need to learn. Simply write down the recommended loads, walk into your local gunshop and announce your desired ammunition (note that "00" is pronounced "double ought" and "000" is pronounced "triple ought." Don't say "zero zero" or "oh-oh-oh buckshot" in front of gunshop employees. Then practice with both your selected defense load and low-cost birdshot to fully familiarize yourself with the operation of your gun and its terminal performance (e.g. patterns at various distances, the startling effects of buckshot on ballistic melons).

BIRDSHOT- small-diameter pellets used for bird hunting. Its stopping power is poor, except when used at very close range - out to 20-30 feet. For that reason it is not generally recommended, except for home defense use.

SLUGS are solid lead bullets for shotgun use. These are big, heavy, fat hunks of soft lead that have enormous stopping power (e.g. a typical 12 gauge slug is .73" caliber and weighs 438 grains - a 9mm bullet is .355" and 115 grains). Slugs must be carefully aimed to be effective. It is important to remember, however, that shotguns must be aimed with shot, too. Do not for a minute think that you can simply point your shot-loaded shotgun at the foe and let loose. Shotguns must be skillfully aimed and fired just like hand-guns and rifles.

.410 Gauge

None of the above really applies in this weak caliber. The .410 is only a half-way decent manstopper with slugs. Choose the Federal Classic (F412RS) or Winchester Super-X (X41RS5) 1/5 ounce (88 grain) hollowpoint slug. Never use birdshot. American Derringer Corp. has produced an odd buckshot load for the .410 (withthree 000 pellets), and I advise you to ignore it. Lose the .410 and buy a 20 gauge pump shotgun.

20 Gauge

The 20 is an excellent self-defense caliber, particularly for those who dislike the recoil of the 12 gauge. I recommend the 20 gauge over the more popular 12 for home defense. Choose the 20 gauge 3" shell Federal "Classic" #2 buckshot (F207-2-5PK) with 18 pellets, or the Winchester "Double XX" Magnum #3 with 24 pellets (X203C3B). If your gun cannot accept 3" shells choose the Remington #3 with 20 pellets (SP20BK5PK-3). All of these loads provide definitive short-range stopping power.

I specifically recommend the 20 gauge for women and recoil-sensitive men who dislike the blast and recoil of the 12 gauge. "Delivering roughly the ballistic force of two .44 Magnum rounds at once," comments the knowledgeable Ayoob, the 20 "delivers 75% of the lead for only 50-60% of the recoil". Many police departments have found their officers shoot much more accurately in realistic training exercises with the lighter-kicking but still potent 20 gauge.

If you are new to shotgunning and considering getting one for self-defense I strongly urge you to buy the reliable and reasonably-priced "Mossberg 500 Special Purpose" 18.5" barrel 20 gauge pump shotgun (catalog #50451). This tried-and-true workhorse is the standard shotgun of the U.S. Armed Forces and costs a little over $200. You'll be much happier with the lighter-kicking 20 gauge than the 12 gauge version used by the military, and - most importantly - you'll shoot the 20 more accurately and rapidly.

For an in-depth look at the 20-versus-12 gauge issue I recommend all shotgun owners (and potential shotgun owners) read 'Stressfire II: Advanced Combat Shotgun' by Massad Ayoob. Perhaps I am beginning to sound like a broken record on the theme of Ayoob's books, but once you've read them you'll understand why I recommend them so highly (and repeatedly). Note: Ayoob dislikes the 20 gauge Remington 870 pump shotgun and recommends you choose the Mossberg 500 in 20 gauge for general self-defense and home-defense use. So do I.

For ultra-close range home defense birdshot will do the trick. Choose any #4, BB or larger high brass lead hunting load, and have the balance of the magazine filled with #3 buck in case the birdshot doesn't put them down fast enough.

Avoid slug use in 20 gauge; you are better off defending yourself with buckshot. If you must use slugs, pick the Dynamit/Nobel or Federal "Classic" (F203-RS) rifled slugs. Using slugs requires careful aiming and rifle sights: few 20 gauge shotguns have the latter.

16 Gauge

The 16 has slipped in popularity with Americans. As a result, no shotguns made specifically for defense are available in 16. If you have a sporting 16, however, it can do double duty as a great defense gun. Choose the Federal "Classic" #1 (F164-1) or the Remington #1 (SP16BK-5PK) buckshot load.

12 Gauge

If you simply want to know the best defense load, go out and buy: 12 gauge 2 3/4" shell 00 buckshot. You shall live happily ever after, as this is the most effective man-stopping firearm cartridge yet devised by man. I recommend the Federal "Classic" (F127-00), Winchester Super-X (X12RB5) or Remington Buckshot (SP12BK-5PK00) as the best double-ought buckshot defense rounds. One of these rounds is virtually equal to a nine-round burst from a submachine gun, with every round hitting.

Effective shotgun technique, of course, requires that one hits with each shot. Don't think that you can merely point the shotgun in the general direction of your attacker and let fly. Read Ayoob's book 'Stressfire II: Advanced Combat Shotgun' for the low-down on good shotgun skills and then practice, practice, practice.

Many experienced shooters prefer #4 or #1 buckshot to 00. I really cannot argue, but Lt. Marshall is on record as stating that 00 is superior, both in penetration and stopping power. Good enough for me, but if you have a #4 or #1 buckshot jones, go ahead (Ayoob favors #1). Stay away from 2 3/4" Magnum or 3" Magnum loads, however - the brutal kick of these rounds makes them a bad choice, and you gain nothing in stopping power over the 2 3/4" standard loads. Controllability is important, and standard 12 gauge shells have quite enough kick as it is.

A note on shotgun spread: firing your shotgun does not create a diabolical cone of doom destroying all in its path. If you have a typical defense or "riot" gun with an 18"-20" open-choked "cylinder" barrel, the pellets will spread out about 1" for every yard of range. This means that the spread of pellets fired across a large room (18') will be 6" or so, a circle the size of a coffee cup saucer. At 50 feet, the spread will be the size of a large pizza (16"). Test-fire your shotgun at various ranges, using big white butcher paper targets to get an idea of the pattern you can expect. It is a common misconception that blasting at foes ten feet away will take out two or three of them. The spread at that range is just three inches, so you can see that I meant it when I said that the shotgun must be skillfully aimed and fired just like handguns and rifles. The shotgun is simply more likely to hit - and stop - the attacker.

Slugs are potent manstoppers, but have limited application for self-defense. Slugs have ferocious recoil and often over-penetrate. There are special situations where slugs might be preferred over buckshot (e.g. road-blocks, barricaded foes), but if you are interested in such esoterica I again direct you to Ayoob's masterful tome 'Stressfire II: Advanced Combat Shotgun'. This guide is for general civilian readers; policemen, soldiers, and gun enthusiasts should rely on Ayoob's in-depth expertise.

Don't be a knucklehead. Stay away from weirdo rounds like rubber buckshot or neoprene slugs. These are riot-control rounds designed for massed police use against violent mobs. Don't rely on such marginalia to save your life.

Two things to keep in mind about birdshot. The first is that birdshot is as lethal as buckshot at close range. Don't believe for a second that you can just wound someone with birdshot and he'll go on to live another day. If you aren't justified in killing a man, you aren't justified in wounding him, either. Never "shoot to wound." I once again direct you to read Ayoob's 'In the Gravest Extreme' and learn the truth.

The second thing is that birdshot makes a lot of sense for home defense. I keep my home-defense 12 gauge loaded with two #4 birdshot rounds followed by 00 buck. Birdshot is much less likely to penetrate thin interior walls and kill innocent people on the other side, and has lower recoil than buckshot for faster follow-up shots (I live in a thin-walled apartment house, however - if I lived in a solid house with a lot of land around, I would definitely choose buckshot instead). The stopping power of birdshot should not be under-estimated: at ranges out to thirty feet or so, birdshot is virtually a solid column of lead. Choose any #4 or BB high brass lead hunting load. I like the Federal "Classic Lead Hi-Brass" #4 birdshot (HI26-4) and Winchester "Super-X" #4 high brass birdshot (X12-4), but there is little difference between the various choices. Buy whichever you please. If you're a bird hunter, use your favorite hunting shells as long as they are #6 or larger.

10 Gauge

Yow. Load your 10 gauge with whatever the hell you want.



RIFLE AMMUNITION BY CALIBER

Rifles aren't a great choice for most self-defense applications. Quoth Ayoob: "The rifle is not well suited to the sudden, close-quarters deployment and maneuvering that is required of a defensive firearm. On the battlefield, yes. In civilian close combat, no way." Ayoob adds that "the rifle is too bulky for maneuvering through doors and hallways, too long to quickly and surreptitiously pick up when the attacker drops his guard, and too easy for the criminal to take away if the homeowner's attention is diverted."

That being said, if all you have is a rifle then a rifle is what you use. Some liberal-infested cities ban handgun ownership (Chicago, New York, Detroit), so you are stuck using shotguns and rifles for home defense. Take some comfort from the fact that rifles have better stopping power, are a strong visual deterrent, and are much easier to hit with than any handgun. On a ranch or farm a rifle may be quite appropriate under certain circumstances today, just as it was on the frontier. Never use ball (FMJ) for self-defense in a rifle.

.22 Long Rifle

A good .22 autoloading, pump, or lever action rifle like the Ruger 10/22, Marlin Model 60, Remington Model 572, or Marlin Model 39 can do the job when nothing else is available. Use any high-velocity round (I like the CCI Stinger, Remington Yellow Jacket, or CCI "SGB" hunting load, #0058) and fire repeatedly. Multiple hits are crucial with a .22: shoot and shoot and shoot some more. Stay away from the after-market large-capacity magazines made by Ram-Line, Eagle, Hot Lips, etc: these plastic nightmares are unreliable, jam-prone and easily breakable.

.22 Magnum (.22 WMR)

Any jacketed hollowpoint. Try the Winchester Super-X 40 grain JHP, CCI 'Maxi-Mag' 40 grain HP (0024), or whatever you prefer.

.223 Remington (5.56x45mm NATO)

This is the standard NATO rifle round and one of the best choices for a self-defense rifle. Many top-notch rifles are (or were) available in this caliber: the Colt AR-15, Ruger Mini-14, Steyr AUG, FN FNC, et cetera.

All .223 hollowpoints are good stoppers. I really like the Federal 40 grain P223V high-velocity hollowpoint (formerly called the "Blitz" round). Marshall says this is the #1 urban defense load. It is lighter than other .223 bullets, however, so you'll need to adjust your sights if you carry the P223V (it shoots lower than all other .223 loads).

If you want better penetration than the P223V offers, choose any good 55-69 grain hollowpoint from a big name manufacturer (I like Federal). Softpoints offer even greater penetration, probably more than you need.

Note: older .223 guns with a 1 in 12" rifling twist shoot more accurately with 55 grain bullets (as they were designed for the old U.S. Army M193 ball round). Newer rifles with a faster 1 in 7" twist (this includes the AR-15A2 and nearly all European models) prefer the heavier 60-70 grain bullets (like the M855/SS109 ball round). Ruger Mini-14 rifles have a 1 in 10" twist and do well with either bullet weight. This is only important at longer ranges. Save the cheapo ball rounds for practice.

7.62x39mm Soviet(7.62 mm Russian Short, 7.62 mm M43 Combloc)

Some prefer this East Bloc cartridge to the .223 for defense use. It is an excellent round, most commonly used in SKS and AK-47 derived rifles, as well as the Ruger Mini-30. Use any 123-125 grain softpoint from Cor-Bon, Federal, Winchester, or Remington. PMC makes a good low-priced 125 grain softpoint (PMC762B) you might like if you have a lot of magazines to fill.

.30 M1 Carbine

Never use ball in your M1 for defense! .30 Carbine ball sucks, but .30 Carbine hollowpoints work very well. Buy the Winchester 110 grain Hollow Soft Point (X30M1) and forsake all others. I mean it.

.30-30 Winchester

This hoary old round has survived so long for a simple reason: it works. Load your Winchester or Marlin .30-30 lever-action rifle with any hollowpoint - I recommend the Federal 125 grain (3030C). Leave the soft-points for hunting and practice.

.308 Winchester (7.62x51mm NATO)

This is an excellent rifle cartridge, perhaps the best. Over-penetration is the biggest problem. Use fast opening bullets of 150 grains or less. The Nosler Ballistic Tip, Hornady V-Max, and Remington Accu-Tip are examples of quick-opening bullets that are available in several brands of factory loaded ammunition.

9mm Parabellum

Generally the same as for pistols, above. Heckler & Koch, Uzi and Colt 9mm carbines will feed anything, so I recommend the Cor-Bon 115 or 124 grain +P JHP and Remington 115 grain jacketed hollow-points (R9MM1). Any reliable hollowpoint is a good choice in a 9mm carbine and the long barrel makes for high velocity and increased effectiveness.

.30-06 Springfield

This excellent and time-proven cartridge has too many top-notch loads to list. Choose the same bullets mentioned in connection with the .308 Winchester (above).

.357 Magnum

Follow the guidelines for revolvers, above. The .357 makes an excellent carbine round for urban self-defense in Marlin or Winchester lever-action or Action Arms/Israeli Military Industries "Timber Wolf" .357 pump-action carbines.

.44 Magnum

Pick any good hollowpoint, using the guidelines for revolvers (above). Don't be tempted to use softpoints; these hunting rounds will blow right through your foe.




Best

T

[Ernst]

Was wondering about the .45 GAP? Thought maybe you would have some good input. I have been told by some that the performance is not up to par with the .45acp as advertised, and that cost and availability were poor. I thought it was just a shortened casing but otherwise identical?

[thegodfather]

Was wondering about the .45 GAP? Thought maybe you would have some good input. I have been told by some that the performance is not up to par with the .45acp as advertised, and that cost and availability were poor. I thought it was just a shortened casing but otherwise identical?

If you want the Glock in 45 and are concerned about grip size, about a year ago they came out with the Glock 30SF which stands for Slim Frame. The width of their 45's was an issue unless you had gorilla hands.

[The Deuce]

T... Bro.. did I ever tell you I love the shit out of you man !!

You are one kick ass bro !!

This was definitely one of my favorite reads.. and I read every single word...

I have always carried 9 times out of 10 Federal Hydrashok for every one of my firearms... (handgun..)

But what really intrigued me was the SHOTGUN info.. obviously I have numerous shotguns, but I always have them loaded with slugs... basically because I am goddamn accurate and KNOW that I am going to hit my target...

But now, I think I am going to switch to BUCKSHOT.. I have contemplated this for awhile now, and this has refined that thought to a reality..Thanks brotha!!

Now, what I didn't see mentioned.. or maybe I missed it altogether because you didn't mention it is..

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF WINCHESTERS PDXI ??

I have cycled 9mm and 45acpand 40 s&w of this ammo, and so far approx 500 out of my 2 9mm's and 300 out of my numerous 45's and 200 rounds give or take out of my 3 40cals... yes I have a lot of time on my hands to shoot. DESPITE I have only had ONE FAIL TO FIRE out of all them rounds.. never once did i get a mis-feed, or a jam... accuracy was spot on, and recoil was just where I needed it to be.. but.. i still haven't decided to make the 100% switch..

I know my Hydra's are G2G but supply is very hard to come by so I have ceased using it.. I just clean my guns when I come inside and reload all my magazines with the Hydras..

I don't bother using BALL for practice anymore.. makes no sense and isn't practical since I will NOT be shooting it in a self defense situation..

But there is PLENTY of stock of this wonderful (IMO) Win. PDXI... So I was kind of wondering your take on it??

Oh.. .45acp pdxi= 230gr., 9mm=124gr, and 40s&w=180gr.

-The D

[TITANIUM]

Was wondering about the .45 GAP? Thought maybe you would have some good input. I have been told by some that the performance is not up to par with the .45acp as advertised, and that cost and availability were poor. I thought it was just a shortened casing but otherwise identical?

I'm not a fan of it. Basically, if you can't buy ammo off the shelf of wal-mart, you can't get it in an emergency. This is a old rule of thumb, of course. but you get the idea.

Now, the 45 GAP is Glock's solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

The performance is not like the .45 acp at all.

Like Colt trying to get the 10mm of the ground, but didn't market it so well.

Colt actually had an excellent cartridge, as it will penetrate extremely thick clothing.It is a excellent cartridge.

This of course is where Smith & Wesson invented the 40 s+w cartridge from. A shorter version of the 10mm.

The 45 gap will go extinct in time, since there are other cartridges that will do the same thing.

Penetration, terminal velocity, and ballistic coefficient.

I would suggest you go with a .40 instead of the .45gap.

This is from extensive research and hands on experience.

Best

T

[TITANIUM]

T... Bro.. did I ever tell you I love the shit out of you man !!

You are one kick ass bro !!

This was definitely one of my favorite reads.. and I read every single word...

I have always carried 9 times out of 10 Federal Hydrashok for every one of my firearms... (handgun..)

But what really intrigued me was the SHOTGUN info.. obviously I have numerous shotguns, but I always have them loaded with slugs... basically because I am goddamn accurate and KNOW that I am going to hit my target...

But now, I think I am going to switch to BUCKSHOT.. I have contemplated this for awhile now, and this has refined that thought to a reality..Thanks brotha!!

Now, what I didn't see mentioned.. or maybe I missed it altogether because you didn't mention it is..

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF WINCHESTERS PDXI ??

I have cycled 9mm and 45acpand 40 s&w of this ammo, and so far approx 500 out of my 2 9mm's and 300 out of my numerous 45's and 200 rounds give or take out of my 3 40cals... yes I have a lot of time on my hands to shoot. DESPITE I have only had ONE FAIL TO FIRE out of all them rounds.. never once did i get a mis-feed, or a jam... accuracy was spot on, and recoil was just where I needed it to be.. but.. i still haven't decided to make the 100% switch..

I know my Hydra's are G2G but supply is very hard to come by so I have ceased using it.. I just clean my guns when I come inside and reload all my magazines with the Hydras..

I don't bother using BALL for practice anymore.. makes no sense and isn't practical since I will NOT be shooting it in a self defense situation..

But there is PLENTY of stock of this wonderful (IMO) Win. PDXI... So I was kind of wondering your take on it??

Oh.. .45acp pdxi= 230gr., 9mm=124gr, and 40s&w=180gr.

-The D

They are great!

Like Speer Gold Dot, each major ammunition company has it's own form of hollow point ammo.

The ballistics look good, but they are just another really good American ammo company's in house hollow point.

If your pistol likes it, and you do also, then run it.IMHO

Federals Hydra shok has that post that keeps the bullet moving forward even after the pedals have "flowered".

Still, most FBI agents use this ammo.

Just so you know Deuce, I heard that they are trying to make hydra-shok for law enforcement only, then try to ban hollow point ammo all together.

Yup.

I'm sitting on so much ammo right now, it wouldn't even matter!LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Best

T

PS- You want the 12g 2-3/4 "12 pellet" shells. Not the 9 pellet.

The shot gun is hands down the most destructive and efficient defense weapon ever devised by man. I wish I could still buy fleshets.

[The Deuce]

You really think they are going to succeed in getting all Hollow Points banned...

I mean seriously WTF is the point. You can kill a man like u said.. EASIER With Ball ammo then HP. So why do you personally think that the Federal Government wants it banned. Regardless if it does get banned like it wont be available black market anyways. Plus if they ban it.. they have to Grandfather in the fact that if WE STOCKPILE HP ammo, they can't say we must surrender it...

I really don't get this administration at all... trying to mess with American's 2nd Amendment rights is going to cause an uprising. People don't believe it but there are over 200million LEGAL GUN OWNERS in the United States, and out of that 200mil I am willing to bet 190million of the Legal Gun Owners carry personal protection.. so they feel safe need a situation arise that they must DEFEND THEIR LIVES.

JHP, SCHP, or and FORM of HP ammunition is Going to Kill someone, as much as any other bullet fired from a gun into a human body..

So honestly bro, what do you think their reasoning behind banning this ammo is??

[xlxBigSexyxlx]

So let me get this straight, for home defense, get the Mossberg 500 Special Purpose 18.5'' barrel 20 gauge pump shotgun with 20 gauge 3'' shell Federal Classic #2 buckshot ammo?

And Im set to destroy anyone who walks in my house without tearing up my walls and everything? lol

[gunslinger2]

I also like Glocks. That being said its not what I carry daily. My every day carry gun is a Kahr K9 in a Bladetech holster, loaded with Cor-bon 115gr JHP. My backup/summer gun in a Kel-tec P-32 loaded with CCI gold dot 32gr HP.

As for home defense I like a good short barrel shot gun as well and for me its a modified Remington 870 loaded with 3" 00 Buck.

[TITANIUM]

You really think they are going to succeed in getting all Hollow Points banned...Yes, at some point.

I mean seriously WTF is the point. You can kill a man like u said.. EASIER With Ball ammo then HP. So why do you personally think that the Federal Government wants it banned. Regardless if it does get banned like it wont be available black market anyways. Plus if they ban it.. they have to Grandfather in the fact that if WE STOCKPILE HP ammo, they can't say we must surrender it...They can say to do it, but who will actually do it?

I really don't get this administration at all... trying to mess with American's 2nd Amendment rights is going to cause an uprising. People don't believe it but there are over 200million LEGAL GUN OWNERS in the United States, and out of that 200mil I am willing to bet 190million of the Legal Gun Owners carry personal protection.. so they feel safe need a situation arise that they must DEFEND THEIR LIVES.225 million and change last time I checked, it's probably more than that.
JHP, SCHP, or and FORM of HP ammunition is Going to Kill someone, as much as any other bullet fired from a gun into a human body..

So honestly bro, what do you think their reasoning behind banning this ammo is??

Purley Political my friend!

Best

T

[TITANIUM]

So let me get this straight, for home defense, get the Mossberg 500 Special Purpose 18.5'' barrel 20 gauge pump shotgun with 20 gauge 3'' shell Federal Classic #2 buckshot ammo?

And Im set to destroy anyone who walks in my house without tearing up my walls and everything? lol

I personally use a 12 G with 2-3/4 shells, 12 shot pellets. But, this is dependent on many things. One of witch is over penetration. If you live in a building that you know there are no kids or people on the other side of walls, then a 12g is recommended. Or, your own house and know your surroundings well. There are things to take into considerations with shot guns.Mainly, that it will stop anybody in almost any caliber 20g or under.The last thing you should be worried about is walls in your house. Besides, you will have to mop the blood off the floor no matter what you use anyways. Wall board is collateral damage like carpet is.

Best

T

[TITANIUM]

I also like Glocks. That being said its not what I carry daily. My every day carry gun is a Kahr K9 in a Bladetech holster, loaded with Cor-bon 115gr JHP. My backup/summer gun in a Kel-tec P-32 loaded with CCI gold dot 32gr HP.

As for home defense I like a good short barrel shot gun as well and for me its a modified Remington 870 loaded with 3" 00 Buck.

That will make a mess of things!

Best

T

[xlxBigSexyxlx]

I personally use a 12 G with 2-3/4 shells, 12 shot pellets. But, this is dependent on many things. One of witch is over penetration. If you live in a building that you know there are no kids or people on the other side of walls, then a 12g is recommended. Or, your own house and know your surroundings well. There are things to take into considerations with shot guns.Mainly, that it will stop anybody in almost any caliber 20g or under.The last thing you should be worried about is walls in your house. Besides, you will have to mop the blood off the floor no matter what you use anyways. Wall board is collateral damage like carpet is.

Best

T

hahaha you have a point bro. If someone did break into my house, the walls are the least of my worries. I'll look into what you suggested here in a bit hopefully and get back to you if I have any more questions.

[xlxBigSexyxlx]

Ti, YGPM

[TITANIUM]

Ti, YGPM

Roger that!

Best

T

[gunslinger2]

That will make a mess of things!

Best

T

Thats the point.

[TITANIUM]

Thats the point.

Old Mossberg's were used in both world wars.

Basically moss 500's. called"trench Guns"

It is by far the best defense firearm ever devised by man.

It shoots slugs, buck-shot, fleshets, and a few more things.

Very versatile weapon.

I have a Remington 870 12g marine magnum, and a Stoeger 12 Gage.

Picking up a Mossberg cruiser 500 in a marine coat.

I sleep with one between the box spring and mattress.

I sleep just fine!

Best

T

[BgMc31]

good shit, T!!!

[TITANIUM]

World of Invention on John Browning


Born in Ogden, Utah, John Browning spent most of his formative years in his father's gunsmith shop, where he made his first rifle out of scrap iron at the age of thirteen.



In 1879, Browning received his first patent for a single-shot rifle that was loaded from the rear rather than from the muzzle. The Winchester Repeating Arms Company was so impressed with this weapon that they paid Browning large royalties to produce it. He then invented a lever-action repeating rifle and shotgun for Winchester, introduced in 1884. In 1888, Browning designed a pump-action shotgun that was more advantageous for the hunter.

Browning soon turned his attention to automatic weapons. The Gatling machine gun (patented in 1862 by Richard Jordan Gatling), was the dominant automatic weapon of the era; it was a rapid-fire gun powered by a hand-operated crank. Browning attempted to find a way of using expanding gases and recoil from exploding ammunition to eject, reload, and fire weapons automatically. From 1889 to 1892, he experimented on the machine gun, finally creating a crude weapon that captured the gases at the muzzle. In 1895, Browning improved the gun by diverting the gases from a hole drilled in the back of the barrel. The resulting weapon was used in the Spanish-American War as well as in the Boxer Rebellion in China. Browning was also able to employ the same principle for a semi-automatic pistol that became the standard military sidearm for the United States in 1911. A later variation of a heavy machine gun designed by Browning was used aboard United States military aircraft, having the ability of firing at the rate of 1,200 shots per minute. In 1918, Browning's machine gun was pronounced the finest in the world: it was water-cooled, mounted on a tripod, and weighed thirty-six pounds. During one test, this weapon was fired continuously for forty-eight minutes. Browning's success with automatic weapons carried over to the sporting arms industry. For example, he developed an automatic shotgun and rifle, as well as a double-barreled shotgun with the two barrels arranged vertically.

No design of Browning's had ever proved to be a failure. He invented more successful firearms than any other American: today, there are over thirty million modern weapons which are based on his designs. One measure of Browning's phenomenal success is the fact that no fundamental changes have appeared in the firearms industry since his death in 1926.





Best

T

[TITANIUM]

Bump.

Keep the Pm's and E-mails coming, as I don't mind answering them.

Feel free to do this in the open forum also.

Best

T

[ChuckHawks]

The article looks familiar. Its been around since 2006...

Notice the likeness?

Link: http://www.chuckhawks.com/ammo_by_anonymous.htm

[(TLF) CHAMPION54]

Titanium

Yo I have a 7mm Rem Mag that was my grandfathers.

Well I was just curious if you knew what the best grain ammo is best for deer and elk?

The rifle is sighted in at 100 yds.

Thnx

[-Ender-]

Dick Casull and Jack Fulmer are two of my favorite people.

[-Ender-]

and i love this thread. thanks T!

[jg2]

FUKN AWESOME......

TITANIUM...... gear and guns.... gotta luv it

MY NEWEST TOY...... 1 of 4

[TITANIUM]

The article looks familiar. Its been around since 2006...

Notice the likeness?

Link: http://www.chuckhawks.com/ammo_by_anonymous.htm

I don't remember ever writing for them at all.

I've written so much over the years with no copy rights.

I had this saved in an old file.

Wrote it along time ago.(I think I was still Married).LOL

Best

T

[TITANIUM]

Titanium

Yo I have a 7mm Rem Mag that was my grandfathers.

Well I was just curious if you knew what the best grain ammo is best for deer and elk?

The rifle is sighted in at 100 yds.

Thnx

160 Gr. Swift A-Frame

Best

T

[TITANIUM]

Dick Casull and Jack Fulmer are two of my favorite people.

Dick has been around for a long time.

His 454 marked the era for hand cannons.

It is my favorite load, over the S&W 500.

Great round.

Best

T

[TITANIUM]

FUKN AWESOME......

TITANIUM...... gear and guns.... gotta luv it

MY NEWEST TOY...... 1 of 4

Smith and Wesson jumped right in on the AR frenzy that took place after the Obama ecection.

Great rifles.

And they will never jam.

Always stay away from the imported .223 that is floating around.

Boxers aren't primed, the powder may be corrosive, the Head spacing can be off, ect.....

Stay with good brass, bullets and lacquered primers.

Alot of stuff being pumped out of the Salt Lake City plant right now.

Best

T

[(TLF) CHAMPION54]

160 Gr. Swift A-Frame

Best

T

Thanks alot T

And also I inherited a Smith & Wesson 44 Caliber.

Its a 1988 Iditarod "1 of 1000". But I heard they only made 500!

Check this out

[jg2]

Smith and Wesson jumped right in on the AR frenzy that took place after the Obama ecection.

Great rifles.

And they will never jam.

Always stay away from the imported .223 that is floating around.

Boxers aren't primed, the powder may be corrosive, the Head spacing can be off, ect.....

Stay with good brass, bullets and lacquered primers.

Alot of stuff being pumped out of the Salt Lake City plant right now.

Best

T

i have a panther arms AR-15 as well..... what do you know about that?

[TITANIUM]

Thanks alot T

And also I inherited a Smith & Wesson 44 Caliber.

Its a 1988 Iditarod "1 of 1000". But I heard they only made 500!

Check this out

1988 Alaska Continental Bank Iditarod Commemorative. Mod. 629 Smith, .44mag, six inch barrel, rosewood grips, target sights. In laser engraved, velvet lined presentation case. Was to be 1 of 1000, but only 500 were ever issued.


It's worth around 1,000 if NIB.


Nice gun.....

Best

T

[(TLF) CHAMPION54]

1988 Alaska Continental Bank Iditarod Commemorative. Mod. 629 Smith, .44mag, six inch barrel, rosewood grips, target sights. In laser engraved, velvet lined presentation case. Was to be 1 of 1000, but only 500 were ever issued.


It's worth around 1,000 if NIB.


Nice gun.....

Best

T

T you are one cool dude.

Thanks alot.

If you ever have time on your hands I have a large collection of rifles that I have no idea of what they are and maybe you could identify some for me so I have an idea.

[kojak_x]

I personally use a 12 G with 2-3/4 shells, 12 shot pellets. But, this is dependent on many things. One of witch is over penetration. If you live in a building that you know there are no kids or people on the other side of walls, then a 12g is recommended. Or, your own house and know your surroundings well. There are things to take into considerations with shot guns.Mainly, that it will stop anybody in almost any caliber 20g or under.The last thing you should be worried about is walls in your house. Besides, you will have to mop the blood off the floor no matter what you use anyways. Wall board is collateral damage like carpet is.

Best

T

I have to agree. A nice 12 guage is all you need. Cheap and will blow a nice hole in anyone. Here in Canada there pretty east to get for hunting. Only problem is you can't kill anyone in your own home in Canada. You'll get 10-15 years. Thats why we have our government and laws (police) to keep us safe.

[TITANIUM]

T you are one cool dude.

Thanks alot.

If you ever have time on your hands I have a large collection of rifles that I have no idea of what they are and maybe you could identify some for me so I have an idea.

Post a picture of the firearm, and I will give you some history, condition, and a price.

Hit me back anytime, as I have been doing this most of my life.

Lets me get a breather from Q&A.

Best

T