Found out my engine VIN does not match my vehicle. + New mods and questions...

[austinite]

This is nuts. I purchased this vehicle a 2 years ago and has a clean carfax report. I know carfax isn't bullet proof, but who dives into the engine bay looking to match VIN's on a car with 11k miles? I certainly didn't. I would totally go after the dealer but I already voided my warranty because I notched the frame to make it sit right. So it is what it is.

So today, I went to upgrade my cam and gears. That's when I found out about the varying vins. It's kind of wild, after taking the engine apart, it's pristine, inside and out. Almost as though the dealer replaced it with a new one for some reason.

Anyway, I upgraded everything from there and had it rebuilt to withstand the upcoming extra horses from the cam and mainly the supercharger.

This is becoming super expensive, but I looked at crate engines and the problem I have is with GM factory engines, the max you could get is 770 hp at a cost of $24000. I'll be spending half of that and with the supercharger, I should exceed the 770 hp mark (Although I originally wanted to stop at 600). Either way, I am going to Dyno the truck after the cam tomorrow to see if the 75-100HP claims are accurate, and then I will be adding the supercharger and dyno again.

Now on to the questions for the experts and enthusiasts...

- Throttle body spacer - yes or no?
- Since pan is out, should I replace the oil pump? Car has 40k miles on it now.
- Save money and go with Shorty headers or spend more and get long tubes? Noticeable difference?
- Was told that GM gears should NOT be replaced if adding supercharger to avoid aggressive jerking shifts. True?

[DCI]

Do you know anyone at the dealer?? They could check the history on the car and see if it had a recall or some freak accident that happened to the original engine.

On the car parts I am no use as I wouldn't be too clued in when i comes to long or short headers on a car long generally means more lower end torque and shorter means higher bhp but higher up the rev range generally.

[pitweiler]

With the TB spacer. I did t notice much of a difference with mine but it might be different for a super charger. Some people sware by them

With the oil pump. I'm not sure how well their made now a days but I had a old fox body mustang that I dropped a new stroked engine in it and they talked me into putting the stock pump back in. Probably 10k miles later I broke the shaft off the pump. So I would with a high performance one while you have it out.

[pitweiler]

With the headers. If your going to go with the shorties. I'd go with the equal length ones. But if I had a choice. I'd go with the long tubes. I noticed a difference between them. Sound and a little more of a snap on the acceleration

[lovbyts]

I didnt notice anything with the spacer either BUT that does not mean it wont show up on the dyno. They are graphite, right? If their aluminum or steel it still transfers heat.

YES 100% on the oil pump and timing chain/belt and water pump. Dont forget the tensioner also.

Your looking for power so go with long headers, they are tuned better than shorties.

As for the vin I would not sweat it but yes I feel your frustration. I bought a car/suv a while back that had a clean carfax and looked like new. I tore the front end apart to remove the grill to put a radiator protector in because it's wide open for damage and discovered the front of the frame looked like it had been ran into a tree, light pole or fire hydrant pretty good. Everything was replaced factory new except for the frame but it's straight. Still pissed me off that you cant see it from under or top.

[thisAngelBites]

No one I know with a TBS would do it again.

Regarding the VIN thing - I presume the chassis VIN matches your title. Are you sure this is truly a warranty issue, or an issue of your original contract with them? You may have voided the warranty, and that may be separate to your sales contract.

[austinite]

Yeah warranty is void. I'm very familiar with the Magnuson–Moss act and thoroughly went through the contract. I knew I was voiding the warranty.

TAB, you're probably right on the sales contract but I am passed that now that I rebuilt the engine.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Tomorrow is Dyno day!

[DCI]

Can't wait to see the torque curve it gets

[GirlyGymRat]

Can't wait to see the torque curve it gets

Spoken like a true Gear head.

[DCI]

Spoken like a true Gear head.

Everyone knows the torQ curve is the one that matters lol

[MuscleScience]

What motor are you building?

Doing a crate motor is a good option. However you can take an LSx motor and beast mode it yourself for a relatively descent price. Lots of my buddies Build 1000 plus hp motors based of used ls2 and ls3 blocks.

The newer DI motors seem to be a little cranker with mods. Haven't dipped into that myself yet.

[APIs]

Cant comment on the TB spacer. I've added better TBs, but never a spacer. There's likely a lot of forums available for your make of car that could give adequate guidance on this.

I wouldnt mess with the gears either unless your shop has experience. I can only add that at greater than 600 ft lbs of torque, your OEM driveline components werent designed to take this long-term. You've probably been told this anyway.

With the headers or any exhaust upgrade just realize you may not like the 'drone-noise' which may result from cruising at highway speeds. Just something to consider if the car will remain your daily-driver...

[MuscleScience]

Cant comment on the TB spacer. I've added better TBs, but never a spacer. There's likely a lot of forums available for your make of car that could give adequate guidance on this. I wouldnt mess with the gears either unless your shop has experience. I can only add that at greater than 600 ft lbs of torque, your OEM driveline components werent designed to take this long-term. You've probably been told this anyway. With the headers or any exhaust upgrade just realize you may not like the 'drone-noise' which may result from cruising at highway speeds. Just something to consider if the car will remain your daily-driver...

I started doing long tubes with electronic exhaust cut outs and stock cat back on all my cars. Barely any difference on high way in sound with no drone but would be nasty loud when I wanted to open up the cut outs. I know people talk about leaking and such with them. I avoided that by simply wiping down the components on the cutouts each time I changed my oil.

[212OlympiaBound]

We got VINs on engines now???? This is definitely news to me

[MuscleScience]

We got VINs on engines now???? This is definitely news to me

they always have

[lovbyts]

I started doing long tubes with electronic exhaust cut outs and stock cat back on all my cars. Barely any difference on high way in sound with no drone but would be nasty loud when I wanted to open up the cut outs. I know people talk about leaking and such with them. I avoided that by simply wiping down the components on the cutouts each time I changed my oil.

I love exhaust cut outs. I had a set on my 1967 Camaro back in 1981.

[tommy0677]

TB spacer, no waste of money. TB machine & polish or larger TB, yes.
Oil pump, yes high volume.
Long tube, but don't go too big on pipe size unless it's a strip vehicle going wide open. Bigger exhaust pipes = slower bottom end. Back pressure is needed if a daily driver.

[austinite]

New cam, more aggressive.