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  1. #1
    hung-solo's Avatar
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    synthetic car oils

    hey guys any of you shade tree mechanics have any comments on using syn oils? also which is the best? from what i have read mobile 1 is #1 synthetic.. let me know what you guys think.

  2. #2
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    amsoil is the best.. Put it in a friends boat and had to idle it down almost 200 rpm's

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    Quote Originally Posted by cpt steele
    amsoil is the best.. Put it in a friends boat and had to idle it down almost 200 rpm's

    i have read about amsoil. its expensive and its viscosity doesnt hold up as much as they say it does. around 18,000miles its thicker than molasses. but hey if i can get 10,000 mile out of my oil i would be pleased

  4. #4
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    Synthetics are great oils. I personally would only run them in a very high performance vehicle (high horsepower or torque). Also, I would only use them on a new motor as an older one will already have some wear and been coated and run on regular oil. If you do have a new high performance motor you should contact the people who put the block together for you and ask their opinion of what to run. A lot of the time, it's more the weight of the oil that is important. On a side note, most all the different car oil companies out there are made my the same 3 or 4 companies so watch your price when shopping around...more expensive doesn't = better oil. I am by no means an expert, but my father owns a shop and all my uncles and cousins have been working on cars since before the great depression.

  5. #5
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    I use Mobil 1 in my s2000

    OG

  6. #6
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    Synthetic is the best as long as you run it in your car from brand new. If you have 30k miles and want to use it you are wasting your money. Mobile1 is an excellent choice but I still wouldn't go more than 5,000 miles between oil changes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benches505
    Synthetic is the best as long as you run it in your car from brand new. If you have 30k miles and want to use it you are wasting your money. Mobile1 is an excellent choice but I still wouldn't go more than 5,000 miles between oil changes.

    well my jeep has about 60k on it. been running havoline or castrol. i was told by my mechanic and my best friend which is a mechanic also to run synthetic. when you start synth dont switch back to regular. supposedly its been proven to clean your motor including piston heads and etc.. also it has a longer lifespan than conventional oils. they are rated great up to 9k miles under normal driving conditions

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    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    It's good, but I'll never use it to break an engine in........

    Royal Puple, Kendall, Mobil1, are all good brands.......

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    hung-solo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    It's good, but I'll never use it to break an engine in........

    Royal Puple, Kendall, Mobil1, are all good brands.......

    ?? why not?

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    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by hung-solo
    ?? why not?
    The reason for this is that synthetic oils, which have extreme lubricity, and lubricant film strength, do not allow the metal wear required for the piston rings to 'seat' properly.

    A change to synthetic motor oil should wait until your engine has completed the break-in period, of about 6-8000 miles.......


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    The reason for this is that synthetic oils, which have extreme lubricity, and lubricant film strength, do not allow the metal wear required for the piston rings to 'seat' properly.

    A change to synthetic motor oil should wait until your engine has completed the break-in period, of about 6-8000 miles.......


    ahh gotcha !

  12. #12
    the original jason is offline AR-Hall of Famer / Retired
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    In other words, synthetic oils do not quickly lose their ability to maintain viscosity at high temperatures as petroleum oils do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Original Jason
    In other words, synthetic oils do not quickly lose their ability to maintain viscosity at high temperatures as petroleum oils do.

    so in your educated opinion, should i stay with conventional oil or switch? mind you i have 60,000 miles on my grand cherokee. i use the 4 wheel drive somewhat often on hunting trips and snow and whatnot. or should i just save my $$ and stickwith conventional?

  14. #14
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by hung-solo
    so in your educated opinion, should i stay with conventional oil or switch? mind you i have 60,000 miles on my grand cherokee. i use the 4 wheel drive somewhat often on hunting trips and snow and whatnot. or should i just save my $$ and stickwith conventional?
    If this is an open question:

    Stick to a good conventional oil like Kendall....... not worth your $ at this point with your Cherokee...

    If your engine was between 6-12,000 miles into it's life, I would tell you to use synthetic.......

    But wtf do I know.....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    If this is an open question:

    Stick to a good conventional oil like Kendall....... not worth your $ at this point with your Cherokee...

    If your engine was between 6-12,000 miles into it's life, I would tell you to use synthetic.......

    But wtf do I know.....

    haha thanx, i just like the fact that the synth doesnt have to be changed but every 5-9k miles which benefits me b/c i drive 3k in less than 2 months.

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    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by hung-solo
    haha thanx, i just like the fact that the synth doesnt have to be changed but every 5-9k miles which benefits me b/c i drive 3k in less than 2 months.
    Think about it this way:

    You spend how much more on a good synth oil?

    It takes how much time to change your oil? 15 minutes, tops?!

    If it were me, I'd run Kendall, and change it every 2 months... I mean honestly..... it's only 6 times a year....

  17. #17
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    Switch to Synthetics?

    "I am considering replacing the mineral oil in my engine with a synthetic oil. The engine has 50,000 miles on it. I have heard that the mineral oil and synthetic oil are compatible. Is this true?"

    Generally, the reference to synthetic oil for an engine, means a lubricant is formulated with a polyalphaolefin (PAO) base oil. PAO, which is often called synthesized hydrocarbon, is pure and is compatible with mineral base oils.

    However, because the PAO base oil does not dissolve additives effectively, it is usually formulated with an ester co-base (usually di-ester and/or polyol ester). The additives are soluble with the ester and the ester is soluble with the PAO.

    Likewise, the PAO tends to cause seal shrinkage and the ester causes seal swelling, so the effects are offset when both base oils are present. It is the ester that can cause problems when one changes from mineral to synthetic. Ester base oil used alongside PAO base oil in lubricant formulation has excellent natural detergency. In other words, it will clean up varnish on component surfaces as a result of thermal and oxidative degradation of the lubricant. When one switches from a typical mineral-based engine oil to a typical synthetic-based oil, the varnish layer will be removed by the ester in the synthetic oil and become suspended.

    This suspended material can rapidly clog filters and can block oil flow passageways and lead to component starvation. The same is true for gearboxes and other industrial machines. So think twice about switching to synthetic oils in applications where the engine or other machine has been operating for some time with mineral oils. If you decide to make the switch, try to clean the system before making the change, then monitor it carefully once you start it up.

    Drew Troyer, Noria Corporation


    I did a little search on the topic and copied this from a site for you. The only thing that seems to match from site to site is Blowns advice on not switching till an engine is well broken in for the reasons he stated. Google search your question and a ton of crap pops up.

  18. #18
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Well what do ya know

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benches505
    Switch to Synthetics?

    "I am considering replacing the mineral oil in my engine with a synthetic oil. The engine has 50,000 miles on it. I have heard that the mineral oil and synthetic oil are compatible. Is this true?"

    Generally, the reference to synthetic oil for an engine, means a lubricant is formulated with a polyalphaolefin (PAO) base oil. PAO, which is often called synthesized hydrocarbon, is pure and is compatible with mineral base oils.

    However, because the PAO base oil does not dissolve additives effectively, it is usually formulated with an ester co-base (usually di-ester and/or polyol ester). The additives are soluble with the ester and the ester is soluble with the PAO.

    Likewise, the PAO tends to cause seal shrinkage and the ester causes seal swelling, so the effects are offset when both base oils are present. It is the ester that can cause problems when one changes from mineral to synthetic. Ester base oil used alongside PAO base oil in lubricant formulation has excellent natural detergency. In other words, it will clean up varnish on component surfaces as a result of thermal and oxidative degradation of the lubricant. When one switches from a typical mineral-based engine oil to a typical synthetic-based oil, the varnish layer will be removed by the ester in the synthetic oil and become suspended.

    This suspended material can rapidly clog filters and can block oil flow passageways and lead to component starvation. The same is true for gearboxes and other industrial machines. So think twice about switching to synthetic oils in applications where the engine or other machine has been operating for some time with mineral oils. If you decide to make the switch, try to clean the system before making the change, then monitor it carefully once you start it up.

    Drew Troyer, Noria Corporation


    I did a little search on the topic and copied this from a site for you. The only thing that seems to match from site to site is Blowns advice on not switching till an engine is well broken in for the reasons he stated. Google search your question and a ton of crap pops up.
    yeah i read this somewhere, ok lets say i do want to change the oil to synth. should i run a "motor flush" before switching and do kind of like a trial period to where the first few times i run synth change the oil more frequently and gradually work my way up?? this was just for argument sake

  20. #20
    Hed
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    When a new motor is built, regardless if its a 150hp 4cyl or a 700hp V8, you run regular mineral oil in it. Like Blown said, metal needs to wear to seat rings, bearings need to seat, and small metal particles need to be flushed out.

    I bought my camaro with 56,000 miles on it, and i started running mobil 1 the day i got it. I still change it every 3,000 miles.

    Few key things to remember:

    Dont start using synthetic if you have over 75,000 miles on the engine
    NEVER switch from synthetic to regular oil, its a great way to get leaks.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hed
    When a new motor is built, regardless if its a 150hp 4cyl or a 700hp V8, you run regular mineral oil in it. Like Blown said, metal needs to wear to seat rings, bearings need to seat, and small metal particles need to be flushed out.

    I bought my camaro with 56,000 miles on it, and i started running mobil 1 the day i got it. I still change it every 3,000 miles.

    Few key things to remember:

    Dont start using synthetic if you have over 75,000 miles on the engine
    NEVER switch from synthetic to regular oil, its a great way to get leaks.

    well mine has 60k miles. the only reason why this was brought up was b/c both mechanic friends keep wanting me to change to synth. they have done studies and **** and swear up and down by it. either way it doesnt matter to me whether i change oil at 3k or 9k. it doesnt take too long to change it i was just wanting somthing that is "better" for my motor

  22. #22
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    If it were me, I'd stay with conventional... end of story IMO....

    EDIT: Also, I wouldn't steer you wrong bro... just advising you on what makes sense... 75,000 is too long IMO... but, to each his own....
    Last edited by Blown_SC; 02-01-2005 at 10:53 AM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    If it were me, I'd stay with conventional... end of story IMO....

    EDIT: Also, I wouldn't steer you wrong bro... just advising you on what makes sense... 75,000 is too long IMO... but, to each his own....

    thanx bro!

  24. #24
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    I would stick with conventional. I just spoke with my bro about this who is a mechanic and he says that it is very difficult to clean out all the mineral oil and you end up with the suspensions that the post above described from the varnish. Then your motor is screwed. I personally like Castrol GTX.

  25. #25
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    If your thinking about switching for the sole purpose of longer time between oil changes don't bother.. I still change mine at every 5000km

  26. #26
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by needmorestrength
    If your thinking about switching for the sole purpose of longer time between oil changes don't bother.. I still change mine at every 5000km
    I'm assuming you run Synthetic? And how would your maintenance 'routine' affect his? You baffle me once again... must be the city water

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    I'm assuming you run Synthetic? And how would your maintenance 'routine' affect his? You baffle me once again... must be the city water
    I fail to understand what your getting at? freak lol.. Yes I run synthetic.. and I am telling him that if he is thinking of switching for the sole purpose of longer time between changes don't bother

  28. #28
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by needmorestrength
    I fail to understand what your getting at? freak lol.. Yes I run synthetic.. and I am telling him that if he is thinking of switching for the sole purpose of longer time between changes don't bother
    But what I'm saying is, who says that what YOU do is proper? Maybe his engine (being something that isn't a GM product) won't dirty the oil up as quick........ you know where I'm going with this bitch...

    * > Chev...

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    But what I'm saying is, who says that what YOU do is proper? Maybe his engine (being something that isn't a GM product) won't dirty the oil up as quick........ you know where I'm going with this bitch...

    * > Chev...
    Bahh haha you Facker.. Maybe I just take care of my car.. If it was a ford I just wouldnt' change the oil jj

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hed
    When a new motor is built, regardless if its a 150hp 4cyl or a 700hp V8, you run regular mineral oil in it. Like Blown said, metal needs to wear to seat rings, bearings need to seat, and small metal particles need to be flushed out.

    I bought my camaro with 56,000 miles on it, and i started running mobil 1 the day i got it. I still change it every 3,000 miles.

    Few key things to remember:

    Dont start using synthetic if you have over 75,000 miles on the engine
    NEVER switch from synthetic to regular oil, its a great way to get leaks.
    What about cars like the Vette, Evo, and Benzes that run synth from the factory? Mark

  31. #31
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfenske
    What about cars like the Vette, Evo, and Benzes that run synth from the factory? Mark
    Aston Martin
    Bentley Amage and Bentley GT
    Cadillac CTS, XLR, SRX and STS
    Chevrolet Corvette
    Dodge Viper
    Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles
    Mercedes SLR
    Mitsubishi EVO
    Pontiac GTO
    All Porsche vehicles

    That's a more complete list....

    The technology was designed for its use from factory, the Cherokee does not fall into this category.........

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    From what I have researched you can switch back to conventional oil after running synthetic. It used to be that you couldn't, but with the new formulations you can....supposedly. I wouldn't suggest it though. You may also want to look into a high mileage oil which I believe can be run after 75 000 miles. DO NOT run the high Mileage oil before 75g though! I knew someone that tried it before they were wupposed to and their engine smoked and sputtered until he changed back to regular oil. So fo rnow I would reccommend sticking with the conventional oil.

  33. #33
    the original jason is offline AR-Hall of Famer / Retired
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    Originally Posted by mfenske
    What about cars like the Vette, Evo, and Benzes that run synth from the factory? Mark

    actually the evo comes with running in oil in it, thick green sh1t, i change to semi synth at 1k and fully synth at 5k, then upgrade to 10/60 which is about the best you can get when adding engine mods, such as cams, stokers, and so on.

    Dont forget turbo is oil cooled also, i still change oil every 4500miles,

    imho

    if you have a sh1t car, use sh1t oil

    if you have a good car (performance) and want to prolong life use synthetic, as temps are much higher and synth will protect your engine better

    peace

  34. #34
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnytour
    From what I have researched you can switch back to conventional oil after running synthetic. It used to be that you couldn't, but with the new formulations you can....supposedly. I wouldn't suggest it though. You may also want to look into a high mileage oil which I believe can be run after 75 000 miles. DO NOT run the high Mileage oil before 75g though! I knew someone that tried it before they were wupposed to and their engine smoked and sputtered until he changed back to regular oil. So fo rnow I would reccommend sticking with the conventional oil.
    Don't switch back unless you want leaks....

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    Don't switch back unless you want leaks....
    Id listen to Jonny he's pretty smart since its his job

  36. #36
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by needmorestrength
    Id listen to Jonny he's pretty smart since its his job
    We just talked about it on MSN, and he agreed with me...

    Mech Engineers know things too

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown_SC
    We just talked about it on MSN, and he agreed with me...

    Mech Engineers know things too
    Yea but I thought you failed after the first week

  38. #38
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    It is my job and I am saying what my research and experience has told me. I have been told it is ok to switch back....but I would NOT reccommend it. Once running synthetic I would stick with it. If it is an emergency then you can add some conventional oil; anything is better than nothing, but I still don;t think switching back and forth can be good for your motor. I don't know that it will end up in leaks...but I guess it may be a possibility.

  39. #39
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    You should switch over.

    You can also switch back from syn to dino no problems, your going from thinner to thicker. Its the switch to syn that can give you leaks, not vice versa.

    The problem you can get, is on a high mileage engine, the syn can clean too much of the gunk off the seals and because its so thin you can get leaks. Usually its not recomended for high mileage engines for this reason. Also, you can loosen up to much gunk and plug things, such as your oil pickup which would be very bad. High mileage, I would say over 80-100k. You may get away with it still, or you may have problems with an even newer engine. Its gonna vary some.

    redline, amsoil, royal purple are IMO the top syn

    Mobil 1 would be my next choice, which is what I use unless I saw the above 3 anywhere convienent to buy.


    btw kendal sucks. they were good like 15 yrs ago...

  40. #40
    Blown_SC is offline Retired Vet
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy_Bathgate
    You should switch over.

    btw kendal sucks. they were good like 15 yrs ago...
    YOU SUCK BILLY

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