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  1. #1
    Bouch's Avatar
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    heating your oil

    I have read that heating your oil prior to pinning, will help with pip. My question is how warm do you want to get it? and how can you tell when it is warm enough?

  2. #2
    Live for the PUMP's Avatar
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    I just fill up a 1 cup measuring cup with the hottest water out of spicket. Set my juice in it for 3-5 mins and its gtg.

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    senorrebo is offline Associate Member
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    I run hot tap water on it for about a minute. Might be my imagination, but it seems to really cut back on the pip (and of course makes it push a lot faster).

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    I do the same as above I run tab water as hot as it goes an submerge my bottle up to about half way for 2 or 3 min. Works good for me.

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    This is all crap and MOST ppl will start screaming "but it works for me"! You have to think about the amount of heat neccessary to change the viscosity of the oil your gear is suspended in. You would most likely have to put it in boiling water. The truth is that warmer gear will not help with PIP! "But dammit Lunk it does me" BS it's all in your head!

    Anybody that has done steroids for any REAL amount of time will tell you just pull it out of the sock drawer, pull it, and pin it!

    Most "pip" is believed tio be caused by one of 2 things...the ratio of BA in your gear (heating will not change this) or the pin tearing muscle when a shaky hand moves the needle too much (this is my belief and heating will not fix this either)!!!!!!!

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    senorrebo is offline Associate Member
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    The oil in mine thins out considerably after a minute under tap water. Thinner gear=easier push=less shaking.

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    Lol i dont warm it at all. Just shake, withdraw, and pin.

  8. #8
    Lunk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by senorrebo View Post
    The oil in mine thins out considerably after a minute under tap water. Thinner gear=easier push=less shaking.
    So you have measured the viscocity? Or you know at what temperture the particular base oil of your gear begins to break down? Do you know what the base oil of your gear is??

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    senorrebo is offline Associate Member
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    Kinda seems like you're trying to "put me in my place" when all I'm trying to do is point out my experience. I'm not really sure why, but here goes.

    No, I have not measured viscosity. When I draw the gear, I leave 1 cc of air at the top. When I tip the syringe to put it under the water, it runs very very slowly. After a minute under the water, when I tip it, the oil runs much more quickly. That is what I am basing my statement of "thinner oil" on. The oil injects easier for me when I warm it.

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    1gearhead is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunk1
    This is all crap and MOST ppl will start screaming "but it works for me"! You have to think about the amount of heat neccessary to change the viscosity of the oil your gear is suspended in. You would most likely have to put it in boiling water. The truth is that warmer gear will not help with PIP! "But dammit Lunk it does me" BS it's all in your head!

    Anybody that has done steroids for any REAL amount of time will tell you just pull it out of the sock drawer, pull it, and pin it!

    Most "pip" is believed tio be caused by one of 2 things...the ratio of BA in your gear (heating will not change this) or the pin tearing muscle when a shaky hand moves the needle too much (this is my belief and heating will not fix this either)!!!!!!!
    yup... ba... or bb concentration... spot on as usual for you..... if pip is problem dilute, treat the oil combo with lidocaine.... or throw it away and try another lab...

  11. #11
    fit2bOld's Avatar
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    I warm mine up. I think it helps. Whatever works for the individual.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunk1

    Most "pip" is believed to be caused by one of 2 things...the ratio of BA in your gear (heating will not change this) or the pin tearing muscle when a shaky hand moves the needle too much (this is my belief and heating will not fix this either)!!!!!!!
    I agree with Lunk but I think if you pin slowly you'll have less discomfort. Seems to work for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by senorrebo View Post
    Kinda seems like you're trying to "put me in my place" when all I'm trying to do is point out my experience. I'm not really sure why, but here goes.

    No, I have not measured viscosity. When I draw the gear, I leave 1 cc of air at the top. When I tip the syringe to put it under the water, it runs very very slowly. After a minute under the water, when I tip it, the oil runs much more quickly. That is what I am basing my statement of "thinner oil" on. The oil injects easier for me when I warm it.
    I am not really tying to put anybody in their place. I just hate gear myths! Honestly if you were running the vial under warm water or souaking it part way in hot water and IN YOUR HEAD it was working for you...then kudos, but now that you say you are actually running the gear filled PIN under hot tap water I will tell you that you are not thinking of the health risks as that is a very unsanitary method. Once that pinned is removed from pachaging the last thing I would want to do with it is introduce it to a bacteria filled enviroment like a bathroom or kitchen sink. I hope you reconsider this practice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 600@50 View Post
    I agree with Lunk but I think if you pin slowly you'll have less discomfort. Seems to work for me.
    No question...push slowely!!!!

  15. #15
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    Thanks guys, Yes I always pin slowly. Thanks for clearing that up for me Lunk. Why take more time if its not really doing anything.

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    senorrebo is offline Associate Member
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    Generally what I do it pull with a 20, suck in the air, then run under the water. I set the pin down on gauze and dry it quickly, wash my hands, then stick on a 27. I clean the site, pin, and it's done. Honestly, though, your pointing out that it is in A BATHROOM is kinda making me rethink the whole procedure. Overthinking the details sometimes leads to me missing the most obvious things (like the fact that I'm bringing my pin into the bathroom). Maybe that would explain the low grade fever I mentioned in the other post.

  17. #17
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    One method is put a bowl in the microwave for a couple of minutes with some water. Put the bottles in the bowl for a few minutes. Draw and pin. The other is to take a hair dryer and run it on the loaded syringe about 3 minutes. Perhaps someone could dial myth busters and we could see if they will do a segment with admin and Jose Canseco guest starring to see if its real or imagined.

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    This is true heating does work I will let this post do the talking for me

    http://forums.steroid.com/showthread.php?t=511272

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    Sheven contributes to all threads in the lab forum and I trust his advice 100% the guy knows his stuff

  20. #20
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    I did this a bit at first but never do now. Room temp works for me

  21. #21
    Sworder is offline Banned
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    You can pressure cook it or boil it to get rid of the BA. If you aren't doing this exposing it to high enough temperatures for this to happen then Lunk is right. It's a myth

    Boiling it may result in oxidation of the gear and if you are boiling the whole vial then you are getting rid of a component which is keeping it sterile. It won't get contaminated from nothing but I don't like the idea of not having BA in my gear especially if it is sitting for a while

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    It's not about getting rid of the BA it's about getting rid of the impurities in the raw materials heavy metals etc and when pressure cooking it the vial must be suspended not touching any of the water

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    Quote Originally Posted by cherrydrpepper View Post
    One method is put a bowl in the microwave for a couple of minutes with some water. Put the bottles in the bowl for a few minutes. Draw and pin. The other is to take a hair dryer and run it on the loaded syringe about 3 minutes. Perhaps someone could dial myth busters and we could see if they will do a segment with admin and Jose Canseco guest starring to see if its real or imagined.
    Apparently SOME microwaves can microwave tin I was told but MINE would sure have a fit with the tin caps...

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    panntastic's Avatar
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    Should definitely not microwave your vials man that would destroy the hormone

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunk1 View Post
    Apparently SOME microwaves can microwave tin I was told but MINE would sure have a fit with the tin caps...
    My bad I left out the word "afterwards" after the first sentence. I don't microwave the bottles. The more I think about it I think the hair dryer method is the safest since that sauce is getting used immediately. A bottle you might mess with and not come back to for months.

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    Sworder is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by panntastic View Post
    It's not about getting rid of the BA it's about getting rid of the impurities in the raw materials heavy metals etc and when pressure cooking it the vial must be suspended not touching any of the water
    What temperature do you have to heat the oil to evaporate heavy metals in a sealed vial? Google it LMFAO

  29. #29
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    Warming the gear thins it out greatly, making for faster drawing and oil that injects with less pressure needed, causing less tissue trauma. Decreased viscosity with increased temperature is not broscience.

    And autoclaving is useful for killing pathogens. Nothing you can do at home will remove heavy metals or other molecular impurities.

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    Sworder is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonaparte View Post
    Warming the gear thins it out greatly, making for faster drawing and oil that injects with less pressure needed, causing less tissue trauma. Decreased viscosity with increased temperature is not broscience.
    It's not broscience that increased temperature affects viscosity, this is true. It is broscience that having a warmer oil will cause less PIP, as I haven't seen any data nor can I use logic to deduce a difference in pain based on 10-20 degrees F. The pressure needed to squeeze out the oil doesn't reflect the pressure that is coming out of the needle, Sir. To further clarify is that you have a less viscous oil you will have to use more pressure, this doesn't have to mean that the pressure coming out of the pin will be higher than if you use lesser pressure on a higher viscosity oil.
    Last edited by Sworder; 10-10-2012 at 03:56 PM.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sworder View Post
    It's not broscience that increased temperature affects viscosity, this is true. It is broscience that having a warmer oil will cause less PIP, as I haven't seen any data or can I use logic to deduce a difference in pain based on 10-20 degrees F. The pressure needed to squeeze out the oil doesn't reflect the pressure that is coming out of the needle, Sir. To further clarify is that you have a less viscous oil you will have to use more pressure, this doesn't have to mean that the pressure coming out of the pin will be higher than if you use lesser pressure on a higher viscosity oil.
    True, but having to press less hard on the plunger will lessen the amount of hand trembling, speed injection time/allow for the use of a smaller needle. Either way, it can only help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonaparte View Post
    True, but having to press less hard on the plunger will lessen the amount of hand trembling, speed injection time/allow for the use of a smaller needle. Either way, it can only help.
    Half of my point proven, thanks Sworder (cldnt have said it better)

    The question concering the other half of my statement is.....what temp would the oil have to be brought to in order to change the viscosity?

  33. #33
    noon's Avatar
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    Its simple for me
    warmer oil lets me more easily push with less effort and use
    a smaller pin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunk1 View Post
    The question concering the other half of my statement is.....what temp would the oil have to be brought to in order to change the viscosity?
    Usually just run it under the spigot at the hottest possible(100-120F), does the trick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bouch View Post
    I have read that heating your oil prior to pinning, will help with pip. My question is how warm do you want to get it? and how can you tell when it is warm enough?
    Just run it under some warm water for a couple minutes,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sworder View Post
    Usually just run it under the spigot at the hottest possible(100-120F), does the trick.
    Sworder...I don't heat my gear, I think it's stupid. Plain and simple, and the way alot of ppl are even attempting it is unsafe and unsanitery.

    I am trying to make a point that most ppl's tap water would not get hot enough to be able to warm the vial and warm through the oil and maintain a viscosity change long enough to make a damn bit of difference. hell consider that if you DO warm the vial under tap water (which probably isn't hot enough to change the viscosity of the oil in the first place), by the time you draw and pin it will have colled down enough that it is right back where you started.

    To those that believe this cuts down on the time it takes to push oil through the pin....add up the time you wasted with this heating nonsense!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonaparte View Post
    Warming the gear thins it out greatly, making for faster drawing and oil that injects with less pressure needed, causing less tissue trauma. Decreased viscosity with increased temperature is not broscience.
    .
    Agreed ^^^ heating your oil up helps for PIP for sure

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunk1 View Post
    Half of my point proven, thanks Sworder (cldnt have said it better)

    The question concering the other half of my statement is.....what temp would the oil have to be brought to in order to change the viscosity?
    It follows a linear curve. There is no particular temp at which it thins out, but a steady decrease in viscosity until you reach 100f (which we don't want to exceed when warming oil. But really, 50f is fine. And oil had a much higher specific heat than water, so it maintains its temp well when heated.

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    Bonaparte, I am sure that out on Elba you have established an igloo of sorts considering that you are heating oil to achieve a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Room temperature for us in sunny California is around 70-80F. 100F won't affect the integrity of the product if you consider body temperature LMFAO.

    Marcus if you really believe that heating the oil for 5 minutes out of the ~3days it is in the body. I would politely ask you to reconsider with some logic.

    @Lunk I heat mine when shooting in a slin pin. That's it, heating it won't do anything besides the viscosity change and the points Bonaparte touched on as benefits of shooting with a higher viscous oil.

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    I may have gooten off of my original rant about heating oil changing PIP which I still contest it changes nothing in this regard

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