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Electricians / baseboard heating.
I have two baseboard heaters in my basement to help control the heat in the basement (I also have central). The one baseboard has a High Medium and Low dial and is wired right to fuse box with I believe two 240v breakers. Is there a way I can turn that dial into a timer or add a timer? The other night I was so tired and forgot to turn the baseboard heat off and went to bed so it ran all night and day. I am trying to add a timer so I could say run it for an hour then have it auto turn off. Is this possible?
Realist: A person who sees things as they truly are. A practical person. The pessimist complains about the wind; The optimist expects it to change; The realist adjusts the sails. — William Arthur Ward
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02-28-2013, 08:18 PM #2
Most of these should have a fitted initial screen so you can flick it on/boost/off/timed. Then you can set the timings.
I assume though that yours doesn't, and just has an odd dial? Without seeing it I can't say, however, I would say it should be very easy to fit a timer too it.
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02-28-2013, 08:21 PM #3
It is absolutely possible. You will need to place the timer before the baseboard heater on the circuit. These exist at Home Depots or an electrical wholesaler outfit here in Canada so I am asuming the same will apply in the US.
The key to a nice looking install is finding where you can place the timer on the circuit that is pleasing to you. Or, in the case that you dont like your options that are already run through the walls or floor you will need to re-run the wire to the spot you want the timer and then continue the circuit onward to the heater.
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The dial looks just like this : http://cache.air-n-water.com/images/dsc_86791.jpg
The wires are in the walls. The heaters were put in when the house was built. The timer will be put behind a sofa so looks isn't a big concern. I'm trying to determine if someone of my limited electrical skill can tackle this.Last edited by DSM4Life; 02-28-2013 at 08:30 PM.
Realist: A person who sees things as they truly are. A practical person. The pessimist complains about the wind; The optimist expects it to change; The realist adjusts the sails. — William Arthur Ward
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02-28-2013, 08:32 PM #5
Here is an example of what yoi are looking for..
http://m.grainger.com/mobile/search/...-1z0qsil?xi=xi
Here is a wiring Diagram..
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02-28-2013, 08:35 PM #6
The question is are you skilled enough to do this without creating a fire hazard? Will you do what is necessary to not leave sloppy wiring in your walls?
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Realist: A person who sees things as they truly are. A practical person. The pessimist complains about the wind; The optimist expects it to change; The realist adjusts the sails. — William Arthur Ward
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02-28-2013, 08:43 PM #8
For sure you wouldn't. Thing is unless you can cut the wire and patch into the timer box without having to splice the existing wire to make it longer the lazy mans install will result in a junction box inside the wall which is not code approved, in Canada anyway.
But if you can get enough slack out of the wire to make the connection before the first heater in the circuit then its all good in my opinion. Just make sure that timer box is tamper proofed!! Not a fun thing for a child to poke around in.
A proper install may be possible closer to the breaker panel. Have a look
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02-28-2013, 08:51 PM #9
You'll have hide that by the panel
Last edited by DB1982; 02-28-2013 at 08:54 PM.
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02-28-2013, 08:58 PM #11
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02-28-2013, 09:04 PM #12
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02-28-2013, 09:10 PM #13
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02-28-2013, 09:23 PM #14
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/comm...ige-met/966754
here is a link to a product that I would use to begin your search for the right timer. this is 240v but i can not verify its amp load ability.
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02-28-2013, 09:25 PM #15
what i will do though is contact my journeyman electrician friend tonight and when he gets back to me about this i will post the information for you to look at
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02-28-2013, 09:57 PM #16
I believe you can buy a timer that will replace the current hi/med/low switch. I cant seem to find in on the interweb but I am almost certain they make them. Try a electrical supply house and take the manufacture and modle # with you so they can look it up. It would be a very simple install, just take the old out and install the new. If you cant find that you will need a single pole double throw timer rated for 30 Amps. This is a little tougher install. You would have to cut a hole in the wall and install a box for the timer. You will also likely have to rewire from the switch to the bb heater because there is likely no/little slack in the exhisting wire. Prob better off to get a electrician out to do that. Shouldnt be too expensive even in PA.
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02-28-2013, 10:10 PM #17
The wall switch would look like the intermatic FD430M but I believe you heater is 30 amps and this particular swith is rated for only 20A. If all else fails look into a new heater you cant be the only person who has wanted this NEW technology. Lol Im sure you can handle changing out the old/ new one. I am certain that a supply house would beable to get you on the right track.
Last edited by canesfan804; 02-28-2013 at 10:14 PM.
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02-28-2013, 10:18 PM #18
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03-01-2013, 06:18 AM #19
Heres the problem I believe DSM is looking for nice install that is in a convenient location in relation to the room the heaters are in.
So in my mind DSM invisions something like this for A timer located near his heaters
In which I have never seen a timer like that for 240v 20a-30a 1000+ watts application.
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03-01-2013, 06:40 AM #20
DMS what you could do is buy a 120v timer like the 1 pictured and a 2 pole 30 amp contactor. .
Then you simply power up the timer from a typical 120v circuit. Then run 12/2 Romex wire from the timer to the contactor located next to the panel.
The timer would energize the contactor for the desired time then disengage when time expires.
With all the said its not a simple job for a novice. So call a local electrical company to assist you.
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03-01-2013, 10:52 AM #21
How about just replacing the baseboard heater with a newer one that has a built in timer? They probably exist and would be cheaper in the long run
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03-01-2013, 11:25 AM #22
move south, problem fixed
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