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  1. #41
    Atomini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCI View Post
    2ZZ-GE, this is the engine code of your car I assume, it is the high lift cam ie the 190bhp car? Or is it the 140bhp? Just make sure the lifter bolts are ok on the car as they have a habbit of them going kaboom.

    I have seen these engine turbo'd before, with internals(Conrods/Pistons), FMIC, and injectors and Ecu to run all this they come in and around 350-400bhp depending on the turbo used. You are in the right place though as most of the aftermarket parts to turbo these engines is in the US. Toyota has also produced an OEM version of this engine with a supercharger, but I don't think ye go it over in the US, it was namely for the UK and Japanse markets.

    Just because it is a 1.8 don't assume it will blow straight away, a lot engines blow generally due to lack of maintaince or abuse or just bad workmanship when the engine is being built or even bad fuel it's a number of things really. The engine in the turbo MR2's which is also fitted to the ST205 GT Fours are good for 600+bhp with the right internal work to them done etc but with that kinda bhp the drivability is kinda gone in them, they just work at high revs and have a terrible power band.
    Mine is the 1ZZ-FE engine, 140bhp.

    Holy christ, are you serious, I could potentially get 350-400bhp out of it??? I'm assuming that's maximum turbo efficiency? I was actually going to grab the TRD supercharger for my model off ebay a year ago (used, of course) as they are so rare, I lost out on it. I figure though that grabbing a brand new bolt-on turbo kit is probably a better idea if I want to boost my engine. This is what I had in mind:

    http://www.turbo-kits.com/corolla_tu...html#turbokits

    Scroll down to 'Turbo Kit for 03 - 08 Corolla S 1ZZ-FE', the $2695 one.

  2. #42
    DCI's Avatar
    DCI
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    This is one from where I am from originally an american car and all. And this is the spec.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keeper View Post
    Hi all, some of you might know how my blue car looked before, so here is how she is now. Opinions are welcome!








    The Spec list 27/08/12

    Engine:

    1ZZ-FE, 1820cc “Westward Eng.” Bored & Honed
    “Wiseco” 0.5mm Overbore, Antifriction Coated Skirt, 8.8:1 Forged Pistons
    “Pauter” X-Beam Forged Connecting Rods
    “ARP” Forged Connecting Rod Bolts & Main Stud Kit
    “MWR” Antifriction Coated Main Bearings & Rod Bearings & Thrust Bearings
    “Westward Eng.” Ported & Polished & Skimmed Cylinder Head
    “Cometic” 1.3mm Head Gasket
    “ARP” Cylinder Head Stud Kit
    “Supertech” Black Nitride Coated Valves
    “Crower” Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
    “Circuit Works” Oil Pump Gears
    “MWR” 630cc Fuel Injectors
    “Walbro” 255lph Fuel Pump
    “MWR” Fuel Return Line Kit
    “AEM” Raising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
    “SARD” Aluminium Fuel Rail
    “Garrett” GT28R Dual BB Turbocharger
    “C2 Power” Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold
    “C2Power” SS 2.75’’ Intake Piping, 3’’ Downpipe, 2.25’’ Intercooler Piping
    “C2Power” Fuel Pressure Adapter, Braided Fuel/Water Lines with Converters
    “Susco” Oil Pressure Sandwich Plate
    “GReddy” Type-S Blow Off Valve
    “Autobahn88” Front Mount Intercooler
    “Koyo” 2-Row Aluminium Radiator
    “Gates” Low Temp Thermostat & Radiator Hoses
    2ZZ-GE Intake Manifold & Throttle Body
    “Backyard Turbo” 2ZZ-GE Intake Manifold Adapter Kit
    “Hondata” Intake Manifold Teflon Heat Shield Gaskets
    “Apexi” Power Intake Air Filter with 3’’ Adapter
    “ATP” 3” Aluminium MAF Sensor Pipe
    “Injen” Air Filter Heat Shield
    Custom 2.5’’ SS Exhaust Middle Pipe
    “Silverline” SS High Flow Resonators x 2
    “5Zigen” Axle-Back Exhaust System
    “Powerflex” Polyurethane Exhaust Mounts
    “Apexi” Power FC & Power FC Datalogit Box with USB
    “Apexi” AVC-R Boost Controller
    “NKG” AFX O2 Wideband
    A/C Compressor/Condenser/Lines Removed
    “Unorthodox Racing” Ultra S Crankshaft Pulley & Alternator Pulley
    “Simota” Carbon Fibre Oil Catch Can
    Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Mod
    C60 6-Speed Gearbox with “TRD” Helical LSD
    “Fidanza” Aluminium Flywheel
    “ARP” Forged Flywheel Bolts
    “ACT” XTSS Clutch
    “Speed Source” Extended Clutch Push Rod
    “TRD” Quick Shift Kit
    “7 Motorsports” Shifter Cable Solid Bushings

    Suspension/Chassis:

    “BC Racing” BR Coilovers & Front Sway-Bar End-Links
    “Energy Suspension” Front Control Arm & Steering Rack Polyurethane Bushings
    "Tenabe” Front Sway-Bar
    “Hotchkis” Rear Sway-Bar
    “AllStar Performance” Rear Sway-Bar Locking Collars
    “SPC Performance” Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
    “C-One” Type-R Front Strut Bar
    “RT Performance” 3-Point Rear Strut Bar
    “Susco” Front Lower Tie Bar
    “Megan Racing” Rear Lower Tie Bar

    Brakes/Wheels/Stance:

    “AEM” 325mm Two-Piece Front Rotors
    ST205 GT-4 4-Pot Front Callipers
    Custom 304 SS Front Calliper Relocation Brackets
    “AEM” 318mm One-Piece Rear Rotors
    “AEM” Rear Calliper Relocation Brackets
    “Stop Tech” Stainless Steel Brake Lines Front & Back
    “Enkei” RPF1 SBC 18x9.5 ET38 Wheels
    “Freaky Parts” Custom Hubcentric 7mm (Front) 38mm (Rear) Wheel Spacers
    Widened & Rolled & Pulled Front Fenders & Rear Arches

    Exterior:

    Custom Made Front Bumper out of “Buddy Club” V2.0 joined with OEM Facelift Bumper
    Smoothed “TRD” Side skirts
    Smoothed “TRD” Rear Lip
    “C-One” V2 Carbon Fibre Bonnet
    “RT Performance” Carbon Fibre Boot Lid
    Carbon Fibre Boot Lid Handle
    Carbon Fibre “Brash Boy” Boot Lid Lip Spoiler
    Carbon Fibre 3rd Brake Light Cover
    “TRD” Sports Fuel Lid & Cap
    JDM Folding Mirrors with custom wiring looms
    JDM Headlights
    6000k Slim HID Kit
    Facelift (03+) Taillights
    Carbon Fibre Front License Plate Frame
    “Password JDM” Front License Plate Relocation Bracket
    “AVS” Tinted Window Visors
    “Odyssey” PC680 Dry Cell Battery
    Custom Battery Holder In Rear Wheel Arch
    Full Re-Spray in Toyota GT86 White Crystal Shine Mica

    Interior/Sound System:

    "Momo" Black Team 280mm Leather Steering Wheel
    “Works Bell” JDM #537 Steering Wheel Hub Kit
    “Momo” Handbrake Knob & Floor Mat Panels
    “Razo” 400g Weighted Black Chrome/Carbon Fibre Shift Knob
    Custom Leather Gear Gaiter, Handbrake Boot, Armrest Cover
    ”Prosport” Pro Series Boost/Oil Press/Fuel Press/Oil Temp/Volts Gauges
    “NGK” Wideband O2 Sensor Digital A/F Ratio Display
    Custom Carbon Fibre Gauge Pod/Centre Console Door
    “Top Shop” Carbon Fibre Centre Console, A-Pillars, Door Card Inserts, Gauge Cluster Surround
    Custom Cluster Red LED Lighting
    JDM Door Sills
    “Raptor Performance” Mini Shift Light
    “Bride” Brix-II Drivers Seat
    ”Pioneer” AVH-3200BT Head Unit
    “Pioneer” CD-SR110 AV Steering Wheel Remote Control
    ”Alumapro” Alchemy MX12 Subwoofer
    Custom Build Subwoofer Enclosure In Space Of Spare Wheel
    ”Lighting Audio” B2.300.02 Power Amplifier
    “Phoenix Gold” T6.5C Tantrum Series Component Speakers
    “Fat Mat” Sound Deadening on Doors/Rear Panels

  3. #43
    dec11's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCI View Post
    I'm a bit 50/50 on this one. It's more EGT's that kill turbos imo. Than just the turning off of the engine. If that was the case all subarus and evos would be having turbo failure as a good few of the general public don't know anything about turbos or how they even work. If you drive the car hard and the exhaust is translucent after driving it then yes let the turbos cool down but for normal non sprited driving I'd say you would be ok just turning the engine off. New modern engines all have high pressure small turbos and I haven't heard much of them exploding just yet or turbo's letting go. Mainly, if they do it's due to the lack of maintaince on the car etc.
    agreed, was going to put a timer on my last turbo'd motor and was told by a mech i trust that its a waste of money, unless you're thrashing the life out of the car its fine to switch off and walk away.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCI View Post
    This is one from where I am from originally an american car and all. And this is the spec.
    nice, these need to be done well, alot of body mods on these celicas look absolutely stupid, this one has got it just right!

  5. #45
    DanB is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCI View Post
    This is one from where I am from originally an american car and all. And this is the spec.
    im in love

    how much all in?

  6. #46
    Vettester is offline Banned
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    Adding a supercharger or turbo is great stuff. You will love it if you do it!

  7. #47
    < <Samson> >'s Avatar
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    Did I miss something? What kind of car are we talking here?

  8. #48
    bp2000 is offline Associate Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atomini View Post
    I'm taking notes. This is awesome info here.

    But now i'm afraid to bolt-on turbo my car.
    I run my Ford Taurus 15,000+ Mobil 1 syn. You are wasting money if you change your oil at 5k and use Synthetic. (non-performance car) If you do that just use regular oil. As far as turbo's for your car....You can't turn a hooker into a housewife. Meaning your car is not built (designed) for a turbo and would be a waste of money in part's.

    If you want a turbo car buy a Toyota Supra. They have built bottom ends and can handle 900+ horsepower.

  9. #49
    < <Samson> >'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bp2000 View Post
    I run my Ford Taurus 15,000+ Mobil 1 syn.
    He said tortoise, I would still run dino oil in dat biotch and still only change it at about 10k. 15k is pushing it, but it is a Tortoise.

  10. #50
    DCI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanB View Post
    im in love

    how much all in?
    It's been like a 8 year project so I'd imagine nudging 50k or more as it has had a lot of body changes over the years.

    Quote Originally Posted by dec11 View Post
    agreed, was going to put a timer on my last turbo'd motor and was told by a mech i trust that its a waste of money, unless you're thrashing the life out of the car its fine to switch off and walk away.
    Exactly, look at all the high porsche turbos out there, I'm sure a good chunk of the owners out there will buy them and not even know what the turbo is or how it works only that the car is fast etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by dec11 View Post
    nice, these need to be done well, alot of body mods on these celicas look absolutely stupid, this one has got it just right!
    Yeh, the car has been changed body wise quite a few times, this is the nicest of them all.

    Quote Originally Posted by bp2000 View Post
    I run my Ford Taurus 15,000+ Mobil 1 syn. You are wasting money if you change your oil at 5k and use Synthetic. (non-performance car) If you do that just use regular oil. As far as turbo's for your car....You can't turn a hooker into a housewife. Meaning your car is not built (designed) for a turbo and would be a waste of money in part's.

    If you want a turbo car buy a Toyota Supra. They have built bottom ends and can handle 900+ horsepower.
    I wouldn't nessecarily agree with what you said above re adding a forced induction to an N/A car. The B series Honda engines and even now the K series engines are known for taking bigish boost without having any major work done only really fueling and cooling mods. The car above is nudging on the 340bhp which is 200 up on standard and using only a smallish amount of boost also.

  11. #51
    < <Samson> >'s Avatar
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    Or you boost a LSx and push damn near 1k(not stock though).


    I blown up more cars than most people have owned. There is just so much available now for just about any car. When I started building cars, we used to make out own exhaust turbo manifolds. Now, shit buy which ever one you like.


    Anything is doable now. I see Hondas all day that keep up with my z28, back in the day that would just not happen.

    The only real gripe I have is why do all this to a FWD car? It's just not the same kind of fun.

  12. #52
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    I suppose it is different courses for different horses. I know what you mean, you can get any power out of any engine really, look at the ECV by Lancia, a Super and Turbo charged 1.8 engine with a crazy head set up with to inlet manifolds on it and it makes in and around the region of 700-800bhp in a tiny engine dating back to the late 80's

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCI View Post
    I suppose it is different courses for different horses. I know what you mean, you can get any power out of any engine really, look at the ECV by Lancia, a Super and Turbo charged 1.8 engine with a crazy head set up with to inlet manifolds on it and it makes in and around the region of 700-800bhp in a tiny engine dating back to the late 80's
    the Yanks know nothing about extracting power from a big engine never mind a small one

  14. #54
    OnTheSauce is offline Banned
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    I built my integral up. Didn't keep stock engine, had a Laskey Racing longblock dropped in and boosted it. Was making over 500whp on e85. That thing rode the f*** out. Drive a stock e46 m3 now. Id like to turbo it once I pay it off and get another daily driver

  15. #55
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    i dont think i'll ever bother with another turbo'd motor again tbh, much more likely to have probs V naturally aspirated

  16. #56
    DanB is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by dec11
    i dont think i'll ever bother with another turbo'd motor again tbh, much more likely to have probs V naturally aspirated
    What about a turbo on the blade

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanB View Post
    What about a turbo on the blade
    eerrr, no thanks, the front would be hard to keep down!! on that note the 929 is starting to feel a little slow to me now, time for a 1000rr soon methinks, or an insane buckaroo 2004-5 zx10r!

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by dec11 View Post
    the Yanks know nothing about extracting power from a big engine never mind a small one
    To be fair when modding the Yanks are up there with the best in extracting a lot of power out of engines that were never intended to be turbo, such as Gallardos, 430's. I drove a Z06 Vette over here and it would wipe the floor with my buddies GTR Skyline in a straight line and keep it decent round bends also.

    It's just their run of the mill stuff that has feck all power.

  19. #59
    Atomini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dec11 View Post
    i dont think i'll ever bother with another turbo'd motor again tbh, much more likely to have probs V naturally aspirated
    Opinions as to why?

  20. #60
    DCI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atomini View Post
    Opinions as to why?
    Cos he can't drive the useless bollicks Ahh turbo cars have their issues due to the fact you have to drive them differently than an NA car, they make their power in the a different way and some people prefer NA personally I prefer a powerful NA car to a turbo one.

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